Framing bathroom window

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6ftdoll
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Joined: Wed Jun 26, 2019 7:44 pm

Framing bathroom window

Post by 6ftdoll » Wed Jun 26, 2019 8:30 pm

Hello, I've been having a heck of a time finding a carpenter to frame our single bathroom window, and it looks like hubby and I will be doing it ourselves. :shock: Thankfully I found Shannon's videos on the subject but still have so many concerns and questions.
The window we now have is 23x23. We want to install a 32x16 awning window. The window on the 2nd floor with attic above.

My 1st question is what size should my double header be to accomodate the new window?
2nd- What size opening should we make? 3rd- Do we need to add J channels (I dont think the new window comes with them)
Lastly and most importantly, how exactly do we support the framing above while cutting a larger opening in the event this is a load bearing wall?
Ive attached pics of the current window and new window specs. Thank you for your time and thank you Shannon for your dedication in helping others with your tutorials.
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A. Spruce
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Location: California, USA

Re: Framing bathroom window

Post by A. Spruce » Wed Jun 26, 2019 11:06 pm

That is not a bearing wall, at least not much, a little roof weight is all. If it were me I would simply remove the window that is there and reframe for the new window.

The specs on the window list what the rough opening width and height should be (32x16), follow that. On each end of the header you have what's called a king stud, these studs go from bottom plate to top plate, the header nests between them. You then have jack studs, these go from the bottom plate to the bottom of the header and are nailed to the king, this is what supports your header and where your rough opening width is created, between the jack studs.

Your header should be laminated 2x6 or a 4x6 member or larger. I would install the header against the top plates so that the opening is fully supported, if the top of the window needs to be lower, then install a secondary plate where you want the top of the window to be, add a block between this secondary plate and the header, one at each end and one centered on the window. Next install your window sill plate, then install cripples between the bottom plate and the window sill plate, one on each side and one in the middle. Technically, the middle cripple above and below the window would be placed on wall stud spacing, meaning, the spacing adjacent studs to one side of the window would be used.
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Shannon
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Re: Framing bathroom window

Post by Shannon » Thu Jun 27, 2019 6:23 am

I agree with Spruce here.
Two points I'll make:
#1 In my video I installed the header on the jack studs lower that the underside of the top plates but spruce is suggesting to install it tight under the top plates. There really is no wrong way between theses two methods.In your case we can see in your picture that the joint in the top plates is separating and in kinda a bad spot and i agree in this case the headed placed right under the plates will be better because of that plate joint issue.

#2 If the window intact measures 31.5 x 15.5 then the spec sheet you posted is correct for the RO size. I would typically build that RO to 32.25 x 16.25 to allow for easier insulating but those suggested measurements will work.

#3 That width of opening is fine with a double 2x6 header even in a heavy snow load area so you will be fine with that.
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6ftdoll
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Joined: Wed Jun 26, 2019 7:44 pm

Re: Framing bathroom window

Post by 6ftdoll » Thu Jun 27, 2019 7:46 am

Thank you both for your input! We will be installing the header directly under the top plates for better privacy bc I am tall. We do get very snowy winters here in the Hudson Valley, NY and the double 2x6 headers should do fine.
Off to watch a few more videos 8-)
Thanks again!

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