Window trim - better way?

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jstrez77
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Window trim - better way?

Post by jstrez77 » Wed Aug 21, 2019 4:57 pm

I've been working on all my windows and have received some great help already here. My issue is I feel like I'm doing it the hard way. So, my replacement windows are recessed from the frame, and the drywall is usually always uneven. You'll see in the pic the window is recessed with a gap and the drywall starts thin, then is wider then goes thin. It's like that all over. So - what I've read so far is that you just cut a piece of wood to cover the gaps, take different measurements at different locations and get the measurement at the drywall furthest away from window. Cut all pieces of wood the same width, then plane off the wood that needs to be thinner. Using the block plane seems to take awhile. Seems like I'm doing it the hard way. Are there more tricks to this?
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Shannon
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Re: Window trim - better way?

Post by Shannon » Thu Aug 22, 2019 10:26 am

Depending on the difference there is around the window and if this is paint grade trim I sometimes will even use a measurement that is kinda in the middle. So if you have differences of up to 1/4”in various spots I will split the difference and you can usually work with that putting on the casing
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jstrez77
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2018 11:15 am

Re: Window trim - better way?

Post by jstrez77 » Thu Aug 22, 2019 10:56 am

OK, and if there's a gap make it between the trim and wall right? Otherwise the only way is to cut the strips on an angle or cut to same length and plane? Cause I think even there if I plane the top strip at a corner or cut on angles so once side is thinner, it might not line up with the edge of the side strip. Frustrating =)

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Shannon
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Re: Window trim - better way?

Post by Shannon » Thu Aug 22, 2019 1:24 pm

That the easiest to deal with but if its all paint grade you can fill a gap anywhere and paint it after pretty much.
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A. Spruce
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Re: Window trim - better way?

Post by A. Spruce » Thu Aug 22, 2019 5:45 pm

Like Shannon says, find a middle ground on the measurement and use that.

Let's say the drywall is 1/4" thick at the thin point and 1/2" thick at the thickest point. A 3/8" shim under the trim will allow the trim to float over the hills and valleys.

Another alternative would be to hold the trim in place and mark the drywall with a pencil, then cut out the drywall where it is too thick. You can also beat the drywall with a hammer to mash it down to a more uniform thickness (carefully) and install the trim over that. Whether you cut or mash, you do this within the constraints of the trim width, then caulk the trim/drywall union and paint. These methods only work for up to about a 1/4" variance, any more than that and you'll definitely need a shim to take up the extra space.
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