Replacing Bay Window

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A. Spruce
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by A. Spruce » Mon May 20, 2019 11:23 pm

kurt333 wrote:
Mon May 20, 2019 9:23 pm

Hey is there a number of different methods to attach and build corners of exterior walls joining?
Is just an L shape join acceptable or strong enough? Looks like some guys incorporate the backing for the corner drywall to attach too. Am I making a big mistake by having no corner backing for drywall? I dont see it getting hit. Or will drywall crack with no backer?
All corners should have backer for drywall support. There are a few instances with interior walls where you can get away with no corner backer, but not many. Without the backer, any building movement or drywall flex will crack the corner. A stud there for a backer is cheap insurance for strong, durable joints. Exterior wall corners that I'm familiar with usually use a sandwich of stud/blocking/stud to make up the corner, this gives you plenty of nailing surface for the mating wall and drywall support. Interior corners can just be two studs in an "L" shaped configuration, again, giving plenty of drywall support to the inside corner.
kurt333 wrote:
Mon May 20, 2019 9:23 pm
Hey when sheeting walls osb, do I leave end gap of 1/8 inch? nail width? horizontally and vertically gaps?
I believe you want an 1/8" gap on the joints, but I haven't had to do much wall sheathing, so I'll leave this to Shannon.
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Shannon
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Tue May 21, 2019 6:51 am

I personally have never worried about gapping the plywood or OSB. I never try to install it completely forced tight but i never worry about leaving a perfect gap either.
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kurt333
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Tue May 21, 2019 11:20 am

Ok thanks. I think it says something on the osb to leave a 1/8 gap on ends. I guess for expansion or wall flex or something.
And corners, looks like the guy has a U shape corner going on. And maybe some just put three studs in a row, and the third one can be backer board.
My window opening is 6'8". I guess just one jack stud is fine then...
Im goona try and removed the split jack they have and put one continuous.
Once I get my window opening done. Then I can move to the outside and wrap the wall with tar paper. I assume the best would be to have the tar paper under the 3/4 foam board. They have osb then old tar paper under that, then 3/4 ship lap. Maybe I should cut out some of the soft rotten osb, even though it wont make much difference as I have 3/4 SL under that.
Any suggestions on weather proofing tar paper wraping around the door? I had issues here before with water running down and getting to inside of house rotting out the floor by looks of it.
With vinyl siding, do I always need a flashing above window and door openings? Or can I even run that, as the J channel sits on top of window etc.?

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Shannon
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Tue May 21, 2019 9:21 pm

1 jack is fine.

replace any rotted areas.

House wrap or in your case tar paper under the foam. It just makes it easier to attach.

Find the leak around the door and seal it properly, not just taping house wrap to it and calling it good. That will be a temp. fix if it fixes it at all.

You have very little roof over hang so you need drip caps. Put it on over the window or door trim and then install J channels over that.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Thu May 23, 2019 12:38 pm

Thanks.
Above my vented soffit covers, it is not tar papered or house wraped, just 3/4" df ship lap. Is it ok to leave it un covered? All my soffits are in place pretty much so yea. But I can sometimes see a bit of day light through a tiny crack in ship lap from inside house. So I used sealant over that.

For my wall elec plug in and light switch. They are metal boxes.
Should I change the elec boxes to the plastic sealed kind with that black foam on parts of them on the outside?
And then put vapor barrier cover over the boxes?
Or just use the vapor barrier covers only around my metal boxes?
Like you show in your video. When I push the wires through the vap box covers, should I then tape the holes up or caulking them?
Do windows that are solid one piece picture windows, seal better then sliders? Do they have a higher R rating?

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Shannon
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Thu May 23, 2019 4:19 pm

No house wrap above the vented soffit is fine

Your metal boxes are fine you just need a poly vapour barrier around them and seal the opening where wire poke through.

Any window that opens has more chance of being leaky (for air flow) Most sliders IMO are not very efficient .
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Thu May 23, 2019 4:38 pm

Ok, i guess when the slider window seals velvet part maybe wears out, then there goes your seal?
Ok i will keep these metal elec boxes and remove wires and re wire with vapor barriers boxes

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Fri May 24, 2019 7:42 am

That little fluffy "seal " is really nothing hardly.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Fri May 24, 2019 3:59 pm

Sounds like these new vinyl window and sliders are well made compared to the older ones. But solid picture window would never be a problem I guess hey.

I am building furring out the walls, with 2" lumber. I have been running the 2x2 bottom plate down right touching the vinyl planks flooring I laid. I wonder if I should leave a gap of 1/8 off the flooring. Or touching the flooring then I can seal the accustic sealant right to the floor and corner of plate?
Or will that make a mess of things? Under my plates they probablly did not have a sealer gasket or whatever its called. So I remember in your video you said to seal right to floor and plate if you dont have that. If I ever have to remove the flooring, this could be a problem maybe, but could maybe just cut it off at the plate area?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Sat May 25, 2019 12:17 pm

I guess lay the bottom shim plate right on the flooring? Or cut out the flooring to fit around it on outside of it?
Hey I ran out of 2" boards, I wonder if i can cut some with a skill saw? and straight edge?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sat May 25, 2019 4:20 pm

Ya i would seal the poly at the floor /plate joint. If your vinyl planks are a floating floor then remember you need usually 1/4" of space between the flooring and walls plate.

If you have a guild for your circular saw just use that. A straight edge is over kill.

This is what I mean by a guild for your saw.https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DW3278-Cir ... =8-4-spell
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Sat May 25, 2019 5:03 pm

Its the lock together vinyl planks, not glued down,
Just bought a tiny table saw used, cheap one, but works sort of, just slow to cut and jams up easy, but can try different blade later, doesnt like df. Working so far...
I wonder if this means i have floating floor?
If so i can leave a gap.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sun May 26, 2019 7:03 am

if it s not glued down then it's floating.

Use a blade with as few teeth as you can on that saw, it will cut better . DF is tough cutting for under powered saws.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Tue May 28, 2019 3:54 pm

The 2x6 boards cut pretty good, feeding through slow or it will jam up.
I am just creating a backer for the corners too and running vertical shims on 16 centers, and leaving some of the other odd verticals without shims over top. Is that ok? Like will the insulation still stay in place? This way I can have more insulation in the wall too. I just run a shim around the window and door frame. I just have to be able to hang the drywall I guess hey and have the insulation stay in place.
So I will be trying to keep the 2x6 insulation in place with a 2x4 in some places and 2x6 in some other spacing. If thats ok.
Last edited by kurt333 on Tue May 28, 2019 4:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Shannon
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Tue May 28, 2019 3:56 pm

Sounds OK.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Thu Jun 13, 2019 2:21 pm

I see lots of adds on your site now. Is that just me?
Hey is there a general rule to what height a window starts at for the top of window frame?
I see that it can depend on how tall the header is. But it seems to be around 16 inch from the ceiling to top of window opening where mine start.
Is there a general rule of how big a living room window should be? Like height wise.
I see that if I put in my 31.5 inch height window, then I only have 25 inches of glass, because the frame takes up 3 inches on each side. I wonder if it will look funny. I mocked the window in there to see what it would look like. It is an opener, slider, middle post. It looks decent, really more a bedroom window, but works with my house maybe as its so small.
Or I could go to hd and buy there 36x72 middle post slider. Or order a picture window.
A 36x72 slider means it will sit 4 inches lower. And fixed window will sit 6 inches lower at the glass viewed when im sitting.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Admin » Thu Jun 13, 2019 2:59 pm

kurt333 wrote:
Thu Jun 13, 2019 2:21 pm
I see lots of adds on your site now. Is that just me?
We made a change to the ad setup about a month and a half ago. You may see more or less ads depending on many factors such as mobile vs desktop, first time vs returning visitor, etc. The ads are automatically placed by Google, which runs the ad platform we use.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Thu Jun 13, 2019 8:44 pm

There is not really a Rule written in stone but usually between 78-82 inches from the floor .
Your window can be what you want and what works for your home. I like a large window in the front room usually coming anywhere from 24”-36” off the floor.
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