Replacing Bay Window

Ask your questions regarding the exterior of your house - siding, roofing, etc.
kurt333
Posts: 339
Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2016 12:06 pm
Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Thu Nov 28, 2019 1:55 am

Hey what mud is best for this job?
Pails of it, bag powder, bag box? The less dust stuff? Or just standard mud? Or light weight?

Is it ok to join two pcs of drywall, that go vertical, with no wood backing behind them and use tape? Would that still hold up, or would it get broken and flex and crack?
Or does it at least have to always have a vertical stud behind it to join them together?

User avatar
Shannon
Posts: 13552
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2011 11:58 pm
Location: Canada
Contact:

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Thu Nov 28, 2019 7:53 am

I would just buy lite all-purpose mud. If you have no pails to mix in then you might as well buy at least one pail to start with, after that bag/boxes are generally cheaper and you can re use the pail. I cant remember how much you have to do?
If you've found our videos or website information helpful, please considering making a donation using PayPal or pledging us on Patreon

kurt333
Posts: 339
Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2016 12:06 pm
Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Thu Nov 28, 2019 4:39 pm

Hey thanks.
Its about 320 sq ft of walls im doing, and minus the windows spaces. So not much then.
So buy all purpose in the pails maybe, big pails. I can go read how much it does on the pail and boxes.
I think you said the dust free stuff doesnt work?

User avatar
Shannon
Posts: 13552
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2011 11:58 pm
Location: Canada
Contact:

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Thu Nov 28, 2019 6:14 pm

I doubt it will say anything about how much it will do. A 17l Paul will be a bit much for what you are doing but it’s better mud so I would go that way anyways.

I tried the dust free stuff a couple times on small jobs but was not impressed with how it sanded. It was better for being less dusty but the sanding was not as easy.
If you've found our videos or website information helpful, please considering making a donation using PayPal or pledging us on Patreon

kurt333
Posts: 339
Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2016 12:06 pm
Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Thu Nov 28, 2019 7:18 pm

I see. So maybe get a 17L pail of all purpose. Last time I went with quite a bit of smaller pails of cheaper stuff at home hardware, there in house brand, cant remmber what its called. And that small quick set stuff 90 or whatever it was. It was mainly good for getthing through the taping stages quick. But was tough to sand too.

So maybe dont bother with any quick set mud? hard to sand? They sell some bags at HD.

Hey is 1/4 inch gap between but joints to much on studs in some spots?

And another spot, i ran the sheet over the window in one pc, actually all the windows, but one spot the pc ripped off, the weak post part. So I scabbed it together, screwed it on there. And can tape the ripped part?

And in another little 4 inch section I had to add on a section where it does not touch a stud on the end of this 4 inch section but not far away it does touch stud and window frame. Do you think just to tape that little section would be strong enough? Should not cause problems. I can maybe show pics of what I mean.

User avatar
Shannon
Posts: 13552
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2011 11:58 pm
Location: Canada
Contact:

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Fri Nov 29, 2019 9:00 am

If you use hot mud use it only for taping and finish it nice cause you don't wanna sand it as you found out before , then you can top coat it with all purpose. If you liked the cheap mud in small pails go for it. You can use the hot mud to refill gaps like the one that is 1/4" wide before you tape.

Where you broke the drywall leg off cut off any loose paper and be sure to tape that area.

I think I need a picture of the 4" section please.
If you've found our videos or website information helpful, please considering making a donation using PayPal or pledging us on Patreon

kurt333
Posts: 339
Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2016 12:06 pm
Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Fri Nov 29, 2019 3:51 pm

Thanks,
They sell large bags of hot mud, may not need that much. Maybe small bag of it, it does set up fast,

Indent any burs flared out paper at but joints? Or cut bevel

I had a few screws pop right through to far.

So sounds like break away any loose broken corner pcs of drywall and any loose paper, cut it off?

On my 1/4 gap at butt joint on stud, its either i have 1/4 gap at butt joint on stud or bigger gap at wall corner? I can move it over either way...

so quarter inch gap should not show up as a crinkle in tape in finished product?

In one pic, u can see i did not have a stud to mount screws to that 4 inch section of vertical drywall pc.
Attachments
20191129_132058.jpg
20191129_132058.jpg (156.36 KiB) Viewed 72 times
20191129_132035.jpg
20191129_132035.jpg (145.29 KiB) Viewed 72 times
20191129_131955.jpg
20191129_131955.jpg (154.46 KiB) Viewed 72 times

kurt333
Posts: 339
Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2016 12:06 pm
Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Fri Nov 29, 2019 7:20 pm

Hey again, for inside corners, do I just tape them?
Or buy actual reinforced inside corners, if they even sell them?
Any point to buying them if they sell them?
I know the outside corners turn out perfect.

User avatar
Shannon
Posts: 13552
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2011 11:58 pm
Location: Canada
Contact:

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sat Nov 30, 2019 8:23 am

You really should try and have all butt joints fall on a stud for better support, the ones you have may be alright cause they are really short, but next time get em on a stud.

yes if your butts are protruding , run the end of a drywall knife handle down them to indent slightly. Get rid of any loose paper. profile any gaps and broken edge areas 1/4" and larger. Don't really matter where just fill it flat with hot mud.It will be fine even if it shrinks a bit ,once you tape and finish it will look good.


I don't know anyone who uses the metal /paper inside corners, I just paper tape them. If you had a bad gap I guess maybe you could use them then.
If you've found our videos or website information helpful, please considering making a donation using PayPal or pledging us on Patreon

kurt333
Posts: 339
Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2016 12:06 pm
Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Tue Dec 03, 2019 2:49 pm

Thanks, filled all gaps and nail holes in with sheet rock 90 quickset. According to this guy, its the right way only way to fill in the gaps, or you will be waiting weeks for it to dry, if 1/4 inch or bigger, and the corners will for sure bubble if you dont use 90 quickset. So good thing I did, I guess its handy to have a little bag of it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVsLKprFsHI

And about the inside corners paper metal type, I have never seen it done either. I may just stick to the paper method like you use. I notice you have a new video on there now. It looks like you do one side at a time for paper inside corners, like you and spruce said to do. I may try that. I remember it was so tricky doing inside corners and I would use a inside corner trowel and ended up swiping it like 20-30 times to get it right.

User avatar
Shannon
Posts: 13552
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2011 11:58 pm
Location: Canada
Contact:

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Wed Dec 04, 2019 9:19 am

Yes I do my insides like the most recent video.
If you've found our videos or website information helpful, please considering making a donation using PayPal or pledging us on Patreon

kurt333
Posts: 339
Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2016 12:06 pm
Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Thu Dec 05, 2019 1:46 am

Thanks.
Hey I have done all my inside corners with tape.
But what I notice, was I did have some gaps, but didnt fully fill in gaps on inside corners, I taped over it. But I notice when I run my hand over the tape on first bedding coat. The pitch goes high when run my hand over it in areas. So I know there is air bubles where the pitch goes high.
Im guessing this is not good. I cut away one area, but there is just so many air bubbles. I ended up ripping one tape inside corner right off, it had so many bubbles.

Why is the caused? Not enough mud behind it, or to thin or thick mud? I thinned the mud down pretty good like you said to.

If I leave these air bubble and mud over them, and paint over. What will happen? flex? crack?

There is the odd horizontal bevel tape that has air bubble I can hear, and rarer to find air bubble on verticals. If any. Maybe because there was no where for there to be an air bubble on the verticals, horizontals, i did not pre fill any gaps and i left 1/8 gaps on all. Wonder if maybe when I did my taping beding coat and the mud maybe found its way in the gaps and then created a air bubble as I lost all that mud... And same with corners maybe i did not use enough mud filler prior or at the time of bedding coat. This may be a problem...
Im thinking of ripping all the inside corners off or a few and just going metal/paper..?

User avatar
Shannon
Posts: 13552
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2011 11:58 pm
Location: Canada
Contact:

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Thu Dec 05, 2019 7:58 am

Just like I mentioned you wanna pre fill any cracks and gabs that are bigger than 1/8" before you tape over them. And any others you want to be sure they are full of mud when you apply the mud bed for taping.
If you have dry tape (air pockets) the tape did not bond to the mud because either it was not embedded well enough or the mud was too dry and the tape never stuck to the mud. These are all problems and will show as you add mud over the tape and when you paint. You need to cut the dry tapes off . If they are not right in the corner joint you likely can just fill the voids without taping , if they are in the corner crack you need to retape.
Prefilling mud can be thick but taping mud needs to be pretty thin (wetter), if its too dry the dry paper tape sucks out to much moisture and they do not stick together. The dry tapes can happen on any joint where you use it.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlecghGvizY
If you've found our videos or website information helpful, please considering making a donation using PayPal or pledging us on Patreon

kurt333
Posts: 339
Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2016 12:06 pm
Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Sat Dec 07, 2019 3:47 pm

Thanks.
I ended up pulling all corners off and re doing. All my air bubbles which were not really air bubble but air gaps behind the very corner of the taped corners...
I could hear a slight high pitch sound when running hand or fingers over the insider taped corners. Some more than other, some I could push on it and see it flex slightly. So I was able to pull them off, some didnt really need re doing as the air gap was so slight. Others the air gap was bigger. What happened was, the mud keeps falling in the gap, as its a deep gap in the corner that goes into the wall. So I used quick set mud on it again and completely filled it in, not really filling the whole gap, as its so deep a few corners, but making a backing for it to fill in. That way I was sure to have no air bubble or high pitched sound. Seems good now. I did thin the mud down like you said. Seems to work good.
Can I confirm some steps, and you can let me know if its wrong or any corrections?
0. Thin bedding mud down to a sour cream conistency with water.
1. Fill in all gaps 1/8 and bigger with quick set mud.
2. Tape corners with paper, bed coat of 1/8 inch, two or three swipes to seat each corner in place, firm pressure or medium pressure to set it in place.
3. Coat over one side of the corner joint with a 5" knife
4. Forgot to say, to mud and bed coat all the horizontals and verticals too.
5. The mud coats of the corner over the tape and all coats after this , can be consistency of mud right out of the pail? Or thinned out slightly? I thinned mine a bit to get it to flow a bit better.
6. Mud skim coat over tapered horizontals, with 5" knife. Swipe over to fill in the tapered gap.
7. Coat over the butt joints verticals with 5" knife, tapering out 4 or 5 inch on the sides and one slight coat over the middle.
This is where Im at right now. Next go to bigger knifes? 10 inch or so and keep tapering out? the tapered edges maybe another coat with 10 inch blade and done?
And but joints a few more coats with curved knife, 10 inch either side kind of thing?

User avatar
Shannon
Posts: 13552
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2011 11:58 pm
Location: Canada
Contact:

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sun Dec 08, 2019 7:28 am

Yes those steps will work. The profiling is done before anything though so it can dry and you can use hot mud for that. I use sour cream constancy for all coats after taping and even wetter for taping, Guess it depends on your local sour cream ;) . I also use the curved trowel on the first coat of mud on Butt joints then use a larger trowel to feather mud out 24-30 across butt after on next coats.
Watch my play list of drywall videos if you have not?
If you've found our videos or website information helpful, please considering making a donation using PayPal or pledging us on Patreon

kurt333
Posts: 339
Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2016 12:06 pm
Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Mon Dec 09, 2019 1:01 am

Thanks yea I may have got my order list a bit messed up above.
I meant to use quick set mud for filling in gaps first with a thicker mud.

What did you mean by profiling?

So to get sour cream consistency you are watering down all the mud from the pail or pre mixed bags?
And for taping you are watering down even more?

Consistency of mayonaise maybe?
Sour cream can be thick yea but then goes watery I guess. Tough one, tough comparison, but get the idea.
I see you move shack the tray around to see how thin the mud is, that works. Or how fast it falls off the knife, can kind of tell and get a feel for it.

My mud in the corners is taking a real long time to dry, I cant get to the second side of the corner yet, because Im waiting for the one side to dry, its a been a few days.
I think maybe I should use sheet rock 90 quick set mud for all my first stages coats maybe hey? But thats alot of mixing and it sets up quick...
I notice they sell bigger bags of it.. Would almost prefer to do that to get through the stages quicker, than waiting around now. Is this why drywallers are using this mud maybe?

Ive got light heat on in the rooms, and one i use heat with fan, its not so hot in there, and maybe that is the problem.

And yea I have seen all those drywall videos, but will review them again, it takes some brushing up on this info if I have not done this to many times.
Really well done and straight to the point videos, no un needed info. Thanks. My go to videos for all home reno info.
I kind of remember how you did the butt joints, you fanned it out to 24 total, I will check em out again. Total 3 or 4 coats?
All my drywall mud in the horizontals and verticals is drying fast. and ready to keep moving on. Just corners are slow.

User avatar
Shannon
Posts: 13552
Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2011 11:58 pm
Location: Canada
Contact:

Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Mon Dec 09, 2019 7:42 am

Sorry that should have been "pre filling" the gaps and spaces.

Yes I mix all my mud to the sour cream consistency and if i don't need a whole pail of taping mud I just add a little more water to the mud when I put it in my mud pan for taping and mix it in with a 3" -4" knife as I need. Comparison to something I'm not sure really but it will be a little more thin. It does not take much water when mixing the small amounts in your pan. maybe another table spoon or so of water to a half pan of mud? Somewhere in there. You don't want it so thin that it won't stay on the life well and is running too watery.

Hmmm A few days seems extreme for drying . Usually I use a fan over night oscillating in the room and can mud other side usually 24hrs later.If you did not let any pre filling in the corners dry good or taping before applying mud over one side of tape then it will take a while. You can run an electric heater also if the room temp is not very high, you want at least 18C but not over 30c or the mud will dry too quick and shrink and crack .

I actually never use hot mud and if I was going to it would just be for pre filling. I have had guys say they use it for taping but I have never done that either. Well maybe on a real small rush job or patch job. The pros use it cause they want to speed up the process when it makes sense to do so.

Your inside corners will only take one coat each corner so if they are a little behind the other joints you will be fine ,most other joints I do 3-4 coats. The coats on other areas are generally much thinner so they dry much easier and quick. Corners are a little thicker ,maybe 1/8" - 3/16" right in corner and taper out to nothing on the very outer edges so it takes more time.

Patience is involved with mudding especially when you don't do it often. I don't do it as often as I used to and it takes me a bit to get back in the groove when I do.
If you've found our videos or website information helpful, please considering making a donation using PayPal or pledging us on Patreon

Post Reply