Misplaced support posts and incompetent contractors

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Vivian
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Sat Nov 03, 2018 11:59 pm

Ok thanks Shannon. Hopefully all the poly will be sealed effecively.

I've been worried about the heavy rain we're having this weekend. Is it 'normal practice' to leave the task of caulking the siding until all the siding is installed, and then caulk all four walls?
The left wall got siding installed over a week, but contractor didn't caulk it yet. Yesterday the front wall got siding installed up to the top of the window, but no caulking done yet. Today we got very heavy rains... Common sense tells me rain has gotten in behind the siding, so when the contractor finally finishes installing all the siding, and caulks, would there be risk of sealing in moisture?

Another thing that worries me is that the front door, which was 'temporarily' put into the rough opening and screwed in at the sides (because contractor wanted to be able to lock his equipment inside the studio from day 1) but it is now 'permanent.' It wasn't taken off and installed with shims etc. No waterproof membrane was applied over the door sill which is half treated wood and half old wood from original build in the 80's (this was deficient work from 'contractor 1') Please see pic. And, the inch gap on the right side of door jamb (due to having to remove a 2x4x8 because the door rough opening was too narrow) could have been filled with a 1x4 or 1x6 jack stud, but contractor chose to foam fill it. He said he has put in reinforcements over the door header and it should be ok. And, he said waterproof membrane is not necessary to seal the Tyvek to the OSB - around the door. He used red tuck tape over the Tyvek, will just install door trim which also serves the siding butting into it...
So, my door installation is very different from your video, and other videos I've watched, which include waterproof membrane around the door opening and a pan on the door sill if it is wood.
Should I be worried???
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Shannon
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Shannon » Sun Nov 04, 2018 11:49 am

Well none of that is how I would have done it. The tuck tape to wood does not hold well in long run but the way the framework around door will sit right on it should keep it in place . Not a fan of no sill pan but if the caulking is kept in good shape there is less chance of trouble down the road. I had a look back on page 3 at the pics of door framing and in this case there is really no weight on that header so you will get away with no support directly under the one end. The caulking on walls I would have been likely doing before the rain if I could have but again it is not a huge problem either. Homes are built all the time trough undesirable weather until they are finally finished up.
All in all like I said it’s not what I would have done but in reality that’s a lot to do with my OCD. I like to be consistent in what I do. Then if there are ever questions I know exactly what is covered up.
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Vivian
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Mon Nov 05, 2018 2:57 am

Thank goodness for people like you, Shannon, ever willing to extend a helping hand and offer sound advice and opinion! Many many thank-you's! Haha you have OCD? If only all contractors had OCD like you! : )

Ok I just have to hope that the building methods of my current contractor will not be problematic down the road. I'm too exhausted to continue worrying, and will just hope for the best. I honestly think that if I hadn't found your website and this forum, I would have gone off the deep end by now, with all the stress & worry I've had to endure since my studio project started.

As a token of my appreciation I went to the Paypal link and contributed a little support for you and House-Improvements.com. Sorry it's not much, for now. My studio project has become so over budget that I wish I had done more 'homework' before starting it. Oh well, there's no turning back now. When it finally gets finished, you'll be the first to know!!!

Vivian
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Tue Nov 06, 2018 11:56 pm

Well, the saga continues...
Some disappointments happened today, mostly to do with contractor not following through on doing what he said he would do, like remedying the front cemented posts which have no saddles and will rot sitting directly in the cement. He left them as is and has framed the front roof overhang rafters onto the 3 front posts by screwing them in at the edges of the posts (rafter frame support is not directly on top of the posts). When I asked why he didn't put the rafters frame over the top of the three support posts, he said there won't be much load on the front roof overhang of approx 10'x4' (the plan to use polycarbonate panels for front, different from the studio main roof which is Westform Duraclad 29GA) Sorry I didn't manage to take a photo before it got dark - too busy dealing with 60 pcs of pine paneling that I picked up today.

Another issue from today is how he's going to replace the left edge of the roof and leaving a gap - leaving a gap does not make sense to me! The outer edges of the left side roof has rot of approx 4 - 6 inches all along the 16 feet span from front to back. So the plan is to cut off 12 inches of the edge of the left roof sheathing, and replace with two pieces of new 2'x8' plywood, as we are also adding extra roof overhang of 1 foot on the left side. When I asked him how the repair seam will be sealed/waterproofed (it will be new 5/8" plywood meeting the old 9/16" OSB roof sheathing) he said it will not be sealed or joined, he will leave a 1/2 inch gap for expansion. I thought, what on earth? If there happened to be a slight leak through the metal roof (if a screw is overly tightened or under tightened) rain could seep through into the Rockwool insulation, and over time, moisture would travel through the insulation onto the ceiling. What I think should be done is to not leave a gap and seal the repair join with a maximum expandable caulking, and maybe even put a layer of BlueSkin over the join, with primer, to make sure no rain leakage gets through the join. Furthermore, I don't think there'd be much expansion/contraction, as the old OSB roof sheathing has been there for over 20 years, and plywood doesn't expand or contract much - am I right?

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Shannon
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Shannon » Wed Nov 07, 2018 1:50 am

I appreciate your support through PayPal, thank you very much. We have a great team here on the forum and we love to help, it is frustrating to hear of folks like you that run into problems before you find us but that is usually what happens, most people are searching the problems they are having instead of searching about the project procedures before they begin. Anyways we are here to help.

I’m not really following you on the “rafters over posts” issue? Pictures may help. The posts sitting directly on concrete is not the end of the world under a covered roof but something to keep an eye on as the years roll by.

The un sealed roof sheeting is really not an issue. I would not seal it either. I would not leave a 1/2” gap but really not a huge issue.
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Vivian
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Wed Nov 07, 2018 1:35 pm

You're so welcome, Shannon & Team! : )
I guess every little contribution helps. When I got an acknowledgment from SKS Media, I wondered what % of my contribution actually gets credited to you and House Improvemets, versus if I had sent it via Patreon - this would be good information for me to know, for making future contributions.

Ok I've attached some pics of the framing done for front roof over the porch (yet to be determined whether to pour concrete or build a wood deck).
Back a couple of weeks, Spruce had offered a good description of how he would do the framing to support the front roof; unfortunately the current contractor is not amenable to advice I get online and likes to do things his way.
The front roof support framing is screwed to the edges of the three front support posts, NOT supported by the surface of the support posts, which is what Spruce had recommended...
I'd appreciate your comments on the current framing for front roof, is it going to be ok, or not? I know there are different ways of doing things, and on my contract it does state "All work in accordance with BC Buildig Code. Best building practices will be used throughout."
BTW I had contacted our Chief Building Inspector before starting this renovation, and asked if I need to apply for a building permit, and he said no and confirmed via email.
I told my contractor that even though there won't be a building inspection, I would still want everything built to code and based on best practice...
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A. Spruce
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by A. Spruce » Wed Nov 07, 2018 2:54 pm

Don't be too hard on your contractor about following online advice. Online, EVERYONE has an opinion and EVERYONE thinks they're an expert, so advice can often be conflicting or just plain wrong. It so happens that here at House Improvements we ARE experts and we DO know everything, so our opinions rule! ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) :mrgreen: (extremely large joke, if that wasn't clear 8-) )

Will the way your contractor did the roof attachment to the posts work, yes, is it the way I would do it, no. Call me crazy, I like direct support by the post, not relying on fasteners to do the job. My suspicion is that he's following the lead of the guy that did the side roof and screwed the fascia to the posts. Maybe he's thinking aesthetics, maybe he's thinking saving the expense of a header, I don't know. The question is, will his method suffice, I would say yes.

I have NEVER been one to accept verbiage like "industry standard", "code compliant", "best building practices". You, the home owner, has no clue what these things are, which means I can say or do the biggest pile of horse sh-poop, and pass it off as "industry standard" or whatever.

You have been proactive in learning the right way to go about things and you've gotten different perspectives based on geographic location, Shannon is a fellow Canuk, I'm south of the border. Our codes and practices are similar, but we definitely have our own preferred way of doing things. The only authority on your local codes and practices is your building department, so it is there that I would take major concerns.
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Vivian
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Thu Nov 08, 2018 12:01 am

Hi Spruce, nice to hear back from you!
Yep, online advice can be wrong but I tend to filter all advice through my 'layman's mind' - once I figure out the technicalities, common sense helps me decide whether it is good advice for my situation. It definitely makes better sense to me, to have roof framing supported directly on top of posts; as you put it, better than relying on fasteners. Anyway thanks for letting me know that what my contractor did on the front roof framing will work, even though I think it's not 'best practice.'

As for what is 'best practice' I think some things are clearly better to do one way than another - at least clear to me - but yes, everything could be debatable. I like to think that even with my layman's mind when it comes to construction knowledge, I can smell horse poop a mile away... : )))
< somehow emoji icons don't seem accessible to me via this site >

Your "Extremely large joke" aside, from my own experience, I do feel that you guys ARE EXPERTS and all the advice from you and Shannon can be trusted, because it all makes good sense to me.

I haven't been able to spend any time looking up actual local building codes, am already overwhelmed with my steep learning curve! But, I will try contacting my local permits dept and see if they can simply tell me on what is minimum overlap requirement for felt underlayment for metal roofing. My contractor is using "Roof Felt 15#"
I just googled and found this:
https://www.rcabc.org/wp-content/upload ... oofing.pdf
On page 95 it says:
At present, a roll of roofing felt consists of 432 sq ft, which is sufficient to cover four roof squares with one ply (4 x 100 sq ft), or one square with four plies. The extra 32 sq ft is an allowance of 8 sq ft per roof square for lapping. Each roll of felt weighs approximately 60 pounds. Since the roll covers four roof squares, each square of felt weighs 15 pounds — hence the designation "No. 15 felt", previously referred to as 15# felt or 15lb. felt.

Whew! I still can't figure out what is appropriate overlap of the underlayment, for my studio roof which is 7'x16' on left side and 10'x16' on right side...is there a simple answer to this? It looks like my contractor has done approx 5 - 6" overlap, with the 3 layers of felt he installed today on the left side of the roof.

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A. Spruce
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by A. Spruce » Thu Nov 08, 2018 1:37 am

Thanks for the kind words. IMHO, you can tell the quality of the information by the way it is presented and whom it is presented by. We're all laid back here, we all want to see your projects successfully completed. We are confident in our abilities, we don't use ego or bully tactics to get our points across. It's even better if you don't mind a little humor along with the info we offer. We mostly poke fun at each other, but on occasion we get to know a regular well enough that we've been known to tease from time to time.

I prefer 30# felt over 15# felt because it's thicker it stays more pliable for a longer period of time. It also doesn't rip/tear/get damaged as easily. That aside, there should be lines printed on the face of the felt as it's rolled out, if the lap is to the first line you'll be fine. I don't have any in front of me to measure, but it's definitely at least 6"-8" of overlap. Overlap becomes critical on low slope roofs where ice and water don't drain quite as readily as steeper roofs.

While I don't think it's necessary in your climate, Ice and Water shield is another product that is a necessity in cold climates where you get a lot of snow and freeze/thaw cycles that results in ice damming.

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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Shannon » Thu Nov 08, 2018 2:15 am

Vivian , our company is actually named SKS Media so you have infact successfully made a contribution to us and we do infact get most of it aside from a few fees. So thank you very much again.


I agree with Spruce here as usual. This is not the way I would support that roof but it will work for what you are doing there. My only suggestion is that the contractor use more then just deck screws or framing nails for that attachment , bolting right through would be best or at least leg screws.


As for the felt 4-6” is fine for overlap from row to row (horizontal) and 12” overlaps at any vertical joints.
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:34 am

A. Spruce wrote:
Thu Nov 08, 2018 1:37 am
Thanks for the kind words. IMHO, you can tell the quality of the information by the way it is presented and whom it is presented by. We're all laid back here, we all want to see your projects successfully completed. We are confident in our abilities, we don't use ego or bully tactics to get our points across. It's even better if you don't mind a little humor along with the info we offer. We mostly poke fun at each other, but on occasion we get to know a regular well enough that we've been known to tease from time to time.
I really mean it, you and Shannon are real gems and truly pros! All the advice, suggestions, opinion, and humor (!) have helped me so much, to move forward with finishing my "Wellness Studio" despite all the stress. The amount of stress has been really overwhelming, but knowing I can come to this forum and ask for help and advice, maybe vent a little, has saved the day (many many days) for me!
And, I appreciate the humor too - I need to learn to laugh away the stress :)))

Wish I knew about more durable felt underlay, at 30#. So many other things I wish I knew, before starting this project.

Today's stress was all the mistakes in my metal roofing order - wont go into all the details here, but in a nutshell, an item ordered was missing, an item not ordered was included, an item was double ordered, and the sales rep was very rude to my contractor over the phone when he inquired about the mistakes. We asked for a printed confirmation of my order, placed at the office of the sales rep, but didn't get it till the day before the order arrived (orders take a whole week). Sorry! This information is pretty useless and not worth typing up.

Tonight I was learning more about options on attic venting - along with soffits, gable vents versus ridge vent. Contractor never discussed the option of installing ridge venting with my new metal roof. Tonight my friend advised that gable vents don't work very well; best option is to install ridge vent, like this:
http://www.abcmetalroofing.com/How-to-I ... Ridge-Cap/
Most of my metal panels are up, but only minimally screwed in. I wonder if the option of ridge vent could be a best option for my studio, and whether it is still possible to do it. The task of cutting 2 inches on either side of the ridge seem risky, and requires much experience and skill...
Last edited by Vivian on Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:56 am, edited 1 time in total.

Vivian
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:46 am

Shannon wrote:
Thu Nov 08, 2018 2:15 am
Vivian , our company is actually named SKS Media so you have infact successfully made a contribution to us and we do infact get most of it aside from a few fees. So thank you very much again.


I agree with Spruce here as usual. This is not the way I would support that roof but it will work for what you are doing there. My only suggestion is that the contractor use more then just deck screws or framing nails for that attachment , bolting right through would be best or at least leg screws.


As for the felt 4-6” is fine for overlap from row to row (horizontal) and 12” overlaps at any vertical joints.
Ah, ok, that's good to know, and as I said, I wish to contribute more, as tokens of my appreciation, and will when I can.

I will 'gently ask" my contractor what screws he used to attach front roof frame to the support posts...

And thanks for letting me know 4-6" overlap is fine. I guess the only 'vertical joint' I have is the roof ridge, which I will take a look at tomorrow.

G'night y'all : ) zzz zz z

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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by A. Spruce » Fri Nov 09, 2018 3:03 am

Vivian wrote:
Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:34 am
I wonder if the option of ridge vent could be a best option for my studio, and whether it is still possible to do it. The task of cutting 2 inches on either side of the ridge seem risky, and requires much experience and skill...
In all honesty, I don't think I'd worry about it. You're not going to get that much heat build up in that tiny space, so it's not going to impact the overall temps inside. Stick with the gable vents, if you have issues down the road you can install a fan on the back of one of the gable vents to draw air through.
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Sat Nov 10, 2018 3:20 pm

Ok thanks Spruce, your comments got me thinking about just how much heat would build up, given that my studio is 50%+ shaded by red cedars...
I'm not concerned about the studio being hot in the summer, as I can open two windows and the door. It's more the issue of potential mold development, from hot air not vented effectively and later condensing into moisture... But, I think this will not happen, as my studio is more than half shaded, and I chose a light being color for the metal roof! Here are a couple of latest pics... : )
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Shannon
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Shannon » Sat Nov 10, 2018 10:09 pm

Ya the roof is so small you should have no problems at all using gable vents.
As for the heavy #30 felt Its really not needed under metal roofing,infact I never see anything used hardly at all around here under metal sheet roofing.
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Wed Nov 14, 2018 2:19 am

Hi Shannon & Spruce,
Well I'm a year older, celebrated my birthday over the long weekend, been offline and off the job site trying to relax and take my mind off all the outstanding issues... But, I am now back in the thick of it all...

Latest issue is the heavy rain. 15# felt was used, but unfortunately contractor left the last foot of the roof felt exposed, not covered by metal roofing, said he has yet to cut the last piece of metal panel to cover the last foot. <Length of roof from front to back is 16', left side is 10' and right side is 7') The metal panels cover 3 ft. width; we ordered 10 footers and 7 footers. He has put on five pieces on both sides of the roof, covering approx 15'. So last piece should cover approx 1'. I asked him why he didn't just put the last panels on without cutting them, just overlap them by 2', which is the maximum allowable overlap. He said something about having to cut them so that the ridges can overlap properly - didn't make sense to me. All other 5 panels overlapped just fine without cutting. What am I missing?

He's been off the job since last Friday, returning tomorrow.

Anyway, I tried to read up on the other issue with the roof - whether roof felt underlay can get rained on...learned that roof felt can break down when continuously exposed and wet, and roofing material should not be installed over wet roof felt as it could rip, and trapped moisture could develop into mold. Yuk! So I guess we will have to wait for a few sunny days in a row, make sure the roof felt is dried out, before installing the last two piece of metal roofing panel, a 10 footer and 7 footer. Now that we're into rainy season on the 'Wet Coast' it may take a while to get sunny days. How would you deal with the unfinished metal roof?

In my case there may also be the issue of missed nails left in the roof sheathing - contractor did not pull out leftover nails after shingles were pried off, just banged the nails down. I'm thinking that any missed nails could pierce the roof felt and rain could soak through...

Almost every task he does is left a little unfinished or half unfinished or quarter unfinished- this irks me to no end! The interior vapour barrier has a big gap at left back corner, and is hung too short on the right wall.

The front door that he didn't shim properly now doesn't shut fully; it only shuts fully if I pull hard and lock it in place with the dead bolt.

The rockwool insulation is 1/4 unfinished, and I doubt he installed it property around the electrical lines. I was able to spot check the front wall where the vapour barrier is not on yet, by looking behind a piece of rockwool under the front window (first photo, or last photo...) and it looks like he just pressed the batts against the electrical lines, and did not cut in a small grove. I spent hundreds of extra dollars for stud extension and thicker rockwool in order to get higher R-value, and he can't be bothered to make small appropriate cuts to insulate around the electrical lines properly - just pressing the batts against the electrical lines will reduce the R-value, this I know from previous research. And, what about the air gap around the electrical lines? Could moisture build or be trapped and develop mold?

Trying to appreciate the positive is getting increasingly difficult! I've signed up for "Laughter Yoga" next week - will help to keep my sanity through all this! : ) And you guys are a huge help!!!
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A. Spruce
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by A. Spruce » Wed Nov 14, 2018 3:02 am

Unfortunately, the things you describe about your contractor are not promising in the overall quality of his work. Is he doing things "wrong", no, but to not finish things is not a good sign.

I don't think you'll have a problem with the damp felt, I'd just get the roof on and be done with it. If you're that concerned, you could easily replace the felt and get the roof down between showers, instead of waiting for dry days that may never come. It does seem a bit odd that he didn't just finish the roof when he had the chance, an extra half hour probably wasn't an issue, he just wanted to quit for the day instead of pushing to get the water proofing done.

Not sure why he was even doing anything on the inside before he had a water tight envelop. Normally, you don't insulate or do any other interior work until the structure is weather tight. It's so much easier to avoid problems this way.

Be keeping a punch list of the items that need attention and see that they are dealt with before final payment. You may also want to have a list of things that need to be done before other projects begin, such as finishing the insulation/vapor barrier before drywall. I remember you saying that electrical was minimal, but that needs to be completed to your satisfaction as well, before the drywall goes in.
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Shannon » Wed Nov 14, 2018 7:04 am

The frustration continues!

Well none of these are giant issues they are concerns to this guys attention to detail for sure.

The damp felt is really not an issue, he could simply cut the wet felt off and remove a couple screws in the last sheet and slip the new piece in to over lap the old by at least 12",screw the sheet down and install the last piece. I can't say I have ever over lapped metal sheets by more then just the last rib but I would think you could if that actually did work out to leave the remainder the right length to cover the roof. In any case cutting it to fit is no big deal either and I would have finished that day if I had the time ,especially if rain was in the forecast. As far as the punctures in the felt ,this is really not a huge deal either. If this metal roof leaks you have other issues. In most agricultural/commercial shops here the metal is laid right over 2x4 roof straps spaced 24' OC and screwed directly to that, no plywood not felt ,nothing. The felt in your case is just a bit of a buffer between the solid plywood surface and back of sheet.

Once the roof is completed I would think this guy should have a look at your list and finish all the unfinished aspects and get things caught up before continuing with new aspects.
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Thu Nov 15, 2018 3:12 am

Thanks very much, Spruce & Shannon, for all your comments and suggestions which I really appreciate and will try to implement carefully... Today was pretty 'topsy curvy' but things got back on track by the end of the day, hoping tomorrow all will be well and the roof can get finished.
About drywalling, I decided against it because I read and heard that 'outbuildings' like my studio tend to develop mold in a couple of years, even if I keep an oil heater on through the winter and keep it around 15 degrees C. I just can't risk having mold due to respiratory issues.

I thought that finishing all the walls and ceiling with pine panels would be too expensive (based on local prices) but it turns out that Home Depot's price on 3/4" inch pine panels is manageable for me, so I bought 65 panels of this, but really had to pick through them to get decent pieces:
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.1x6- ... 20634.html
And I bought 8 pcs of 1x6x8 for window and door trim, as contractor asked. HD staff loaded it into my minivan and I unloaded most of it myself back home, whew! They're now wrapped up in cotton sheets and tarp, sitting under cover on my deck, hoping moisture (from high humidity) will stay away till they get installed!

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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Thu Nov 15, 2018 3:17 am

PS
For sure I'll ask contractor to layer new pieces of felt over the exposed pieces, and hope he will also carefully cut out the damp exposed pieces...

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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Shannon » Thu Nov 15, 2018 6:58 am

The felt has likely dried enough by now and would not need to be replaced?
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Sat Nov 17, 2018 3:07 am

Yes I think the felt should have dried enough, so I guess just adding another layer should suffice. I had wiped off the rain and covered it with lumber tarp on Wed. Contractor said he'll finish the roof on Monday. It should stay 'sunny' until Tues, fingers crossed!

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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Shannon » Sun Nov 18, 2018 12:32 am

No extra layer is needed. Just get the tin on
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Vivian
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Mon Nov 19, 2018 2:41 am

Ok, tomorrow the roof should get finished.
Saving grace is that the exposed felt is at the outer edge of the 4' overhang at the back, so even if there were a leak, it shouldn't leak into the building : )

Vivian
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Mon Nov 26, 2018 2:33 am

Hi Shannon & Spruce!
Seems ages since I've posted here! Well, things have been moving along in the past week, despite some mishaps.
A minor mishap is that two pine panels got installed back to front...one is just below the light switches and the other is 3 panels above the light switches. Contractor said he can cut them out and replace them, but I wonder if the cutting will damage the vapor barrier. I've been thinking that I'd rather live with the 'imperfections' of the pine panels, than risk the vapor barrier being damaged. I guess it will depend on where the damage may occur, in the process of cutting out the two panels, whether we could easily tape over damage cuts with tuck tape?

Major mishap is something I was afraid may happen, and it has happened tonight approx 9:30pm. The windstorm blew off one of the ridge caps, the one that wasn't screwed down. Contractor was supposed to install all the roof screws last Monday, but when I got home he said he had fallen off the ladder, and ended up leaving early. So the roof screws didn't get installed while it was dry. Since then it has been rainy. A few screws had been installed to hold down the panels, but no screws on the ridge cap that blew off tonight. I'm just thankful no one got hurt. I was right there when it happened, out in the yard putting kitchen waste into my compost bin, and my little dog was out for her evening pee...then I heard a clunk! The ridge cap landed on the fence approx 10 ft from me. It was bent around the middle, and I managed to pull it off the fence and bend it back into shape. I'm wondering whether this accident may cause "metal fatigue" and whether I should order a new ridge cap, to be on the safe side. I'd appreciate your opinion please.
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Shannon
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Shannon » Mon Nov 26, 2018 6:51 am

I am thinking that those panels he installed backwards will just get cut down the middle and then pull out ,if the vapour barrier is damaged he can simply tape it up again. No big deal.
The ridge cap will be fine to reuse if it does not look all bent up. That could have been very serious if someone would have been hit by that flying metal,I'm glad no one was hit.
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Vivian
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Mon Nov 26, 2018 12:39 pm

Thanks very much, Shannon. Yep, I'm counting my lucky stars, so thankful no one was hit. My precious little dog is only 6 lbs; the possibility of her getting hit by metal would be unbearable.

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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Thu Dec 06, 2018 1:40 am

Hi Shannon, Spruce...
More stressful things happened with current contractor, the most current being on Monday he cut the electrical lines when cutting the rough opening for the gable vent. He fixed it by wrapping electrical tape around two of the exposed wires and not the third copper wire (sorry I didn't get a photo of this); after this fix, the ceiling light, porch light, and two electrical outlets on left and back wall did work again. Then the installed the gable vent, caulked it, and put vertical trim on the vent. After he left yesterday I found that the outlet on the right wall did not work. On Tuesday I told him about the right wall outlet not working, and asked that he secure the cut electrical line properly inside a box (my friend advised this, and also that if the right wall outlet does not work, there would be an exposed cut wire inside the wall and it must be repaired and secured properly). Contractor had tried to fix it by taking apart the outlet plug in at the wall inside the studio but did not manage to fix it. Today I asked him to fix the cut electrical lines properly, and he ripped apart the gable vent, damaged it badly, and expected me to remove all the dried caulking (Lepage Quad) stuck to the vent. He thinks the damaged gable vent can be reused, but I don't think so. It's very hard to remove the caulking stuck to it.
He took a long time trying to figure out how to secure the exposed/burnt electrical line - please see photos - as the left side is burnt very close to the top horizontal stud, leaving a very short piece sticking out to work with, to enclose inside a box. In the end he didn't enclose it inside the box, and just put plastic caps on the short end (will try to get a photo of this tomorrow). The outlet on the right wall now works, but I wonder if I need to hire a qualified electrician to check the way he fixed the electrical lines he had cut carelessly while installing the gable vent. The electrical work was done by a qualified electrician before current contractor came onto the project.

As for the gable vent, it is badly damaged, with lots of dried caulking stuck on it, and hard to remove. Contractor said to me, "I don't do peddly things, you have to remove the caulking, I'm not doing it...I can walk off the job anytime..." Besides being severely negligent, he has also been displaying intimidating behavior towards me.

Today I offered to hire a roofing company (that I hired before for my main house) to finish putting in the screws on the top of the metal roof, and go halves with contractor on the bill, so that he wouldn't have to get on the roof himself. I expect the bill would be around $200, so it'd be $100 each. He's made excuse after excuse for not getting on the roof to finish putting in screws (the ridge cap got blown off...); I think it's because he has a condition called vertigo. But, he would not agree to having a roofing company finish the job, and said he would finish it by end of this week...

Any comments & advice from you is much appreciated!
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Gable Vent exterior.JPG
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Gable Vent damaged.JPG
Gable Vent damaged.JPG (46.47 KiB) Viewed 294 times

Vivian
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by Vivian » Thu Dec 06, 2018 1:43 am

This is how the electrical lines were installed, before insulation, etc.
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Re: Misplaced support posts

Post by A. Spruce » Thu Dec 06, 2018 3:15 am

This guy is a grade-A moron! It is well past time to FIRE this idiot and move on to the next one. Withhold any currently owed funds to pay for all his screw ups, if he has a problem with that, he can take you to court. You have all your photos and this thread that document the problems when they occurred and the fact that he's incapable of addressing them.

Wrapping a wire connection with tape IS NOT a valid repair! Wrapping tape around damaged wires IS NOT a valid repair. ALL wire terminations MUST be in a junction box and the junction box MUST BE accessible, which means that new wires will likely need to be run. I would absolutely hire an electrician to check any work already "done" and/or "repaired" by this worthless idiot! I would also hire a roofing company to check his roof work.

As for the gable vent, it needs to be replaced BY THE MORON, he cut the wire, he messed up the vent, he should be paying for his own mistakes. Include in the bill another tube of caulk and anything else damaged by him as a result of his incompetence.

I'm serious about firing him! He's proven to be incompetent in every aspect of construction. He has proven to be untrustworthy by both his word and actions. As for his becoming aggressive and intimidating towards you, THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE, and guarantees that any continued efforts from him will be done willfully poorly which will very likely result in someone getting hurt, namely you. At this point, I wouldn't even let him back on the property, not even to retrieve tools.
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

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