Replacing Bay Window

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Shannon
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Thu Sep 19, 2019 6:56 am

Yes you can set the hinge side without the door hanging, be sure the sill is level also.
You can install long screws either in one hinge hole of each hinge location or behind the weather strip. Either way you also want one near the bottom and top corners (about 2" from corner)
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Thu Sep 19, 2019 12:30 pm

Thanks. They have left two hinge holes empty for the long screws, so I will put 4 inch through it.

Hey just a question and thought. I wouldnt mind having electrical plug in outside my front door.
I will be running a light above near front door, could I put in a plug in sort of deal that threads into the socket, so I could run extenstion cords off that? Or is that to light duty? I thought maybe i saw they sell that somewhere. An adaptor to thread in.
Otherwise I would have to wire something up and now is the time to do it?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Thu Sep 19, 2019 9:46 pm

Hey I installed hinge side of door frame, I only had a 3 ft level. I mounted it flush to the outside of 3/4 plywood 1.5 strips around the outside.
I dont like the way some of the reveal looks, and I really dont like the way the door pushes against the seal at the top 1/2 or 1/3 of the door, its not pushing flush against the seal on the lock side, you can see its off. It pushes more at the bottom of the door, and more of a gap at the top of door and against seal.
So any recomendation on how to fix this?
Always install door level? And not flush with outer wall?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Fri Sep 20, 2019 7:15 am

I would run a dedicated circuit to the exterior for a plug.

Yes the wall may be twisted slightly so you need to "tweak" the frame to make the door seal properly. If it takes too much to just move either the top or bottom alone then move each just a little instead in opposite direction from each other.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Sat Sep 21, 2019 9:56 pm

I seemed to have straighted it out, pushed the top in and it pushes more evenly against the seal, gonna try putting it in a bit more.
Would you say, is it best to have my door frame in board of the outer layer on outside of house, or outboard of it? I guess it is a bit crooked so it wont be straight, but trying to get it just right?
Maybe makes not much difference because i will be sealing the gaps with quad sealant?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sun Sep 22, 2019 9:03 am

won't make a lot of difference as long as its not more then 1/8" or so.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Tue Sep 24, 2019 1:50 pm

Ok I got the door installed to a happy medium, working with all the un even and rough opening.
The door frame was bowed too a bit, maybe common with fir frames...
6 foot level made the easier with the bowed frame and stuff...
6 shim places on hinge side, and 7 shim places on lock side, with 4 inch screws under each shim space, Above and below where dead bolt will go I put shims.

Over kill...?

Shouldnt be going anywhere any time soon...
Set sill to level, set hinge side with door removed, once i got that, then mounted the door, then set reveal. I can see how you have to follow the reveal and not so much level at this point if you want the reveal to be even...
I find it helps to install the screws first, then put the shims in sometimes, you find out what works for you hey... And for sure the even push against the seal was a big one I had to pay attention too, you can not ignore that. I removed all the seals and set it for a even push against the jamb. I had to push the lock side in at the top of the frame, and pull the frame out at bottom on lock side, to get an even push against the seal on lock side.

I think I will run some tar paper 9 inch strips on sides of opening and top? Then put on brick mold and sealant on edges?

Then start foaming gaps in door jamb in two passes.

I will need some special nails for mounting the brick mold? Casing nails? I will have to go get some i think.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Tue Sep 24, 2019 7:09 pm

You shim and screw usage is fine.
Yes if the brickmold is being left painted then I would use long finish nails, 2-1/2" to 3" would be plenty long enough. fasten and set the nails and then fill and paint.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Fri Sep 27, 2019 8:58 pm

Hey thanks. I painted the brick mold with a few coats, then put on j channel. I wonder if I should have put on a drip cap.
One thing I notice with some pieces of vinyl siding, on the middle part of the d5 siding, you can pull the middle part out when its installed, like its not locked under the other pc of siding so good in the middle lap part, bevel part.
Is this because I didnt pull up on the siding enough to lock it into that middle row enough?
Last edited by kurt333 on Sat Sep 28, 2019 11:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sat Sep 28, 2019 7:30 am

Yes that door should have a drip cap. The soffit over hang above the door is not enough in this case.
You should not easily be able to unhook the rows of siding from each other row to row. If you are referring to the middle of the end of a piece where they lap each other in a row, that is pretty normal to have some looseness, especially on D5 siding.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Sat Sep 28, 2019 11:29 am

Ok thanks. I will put on the drip cap, I will have to take the top j channel apart a bit then and re do it. Good idea. Yea I really only have 8 inch soffits.
And that is exactly what im talking about, on the ends of the siding on the middle bevel of the d5 siding, only on a few of the ends I notice this, they are not so locked together, its more like loose and a gap there. I may try and just remove a few pcs and remedy that by pulling up on it or banging up on the nail slightly. Maybe that would make it tighter or lock it in place better.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sat Sep 28, 2019 4:24 pm

Usually that will not make much difference. Sometimes they fit tight sometimes they don't. D5 is worse than D4.5 I have found.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Sat Sep 28, 2019 6:20 pm

Yea I read ya. It did work, it made it so it wasnt so easy to pull apart, I just made the nails up higher so it locked them in tighter. Seems to work. See gaps on some of the, some sit really flush and no gap.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Mon Sep 30, 2019 11:15 am

Curious what you use to fill in over the screw holes around the door frame and brick mold nail holes?
I tried alex plus type stuff, latex acrylic caulking, but it just dries concave with divit.
Then I used that wood filler stuff, but notice it says interior on it.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Mon Sep 30, 2019 10:05 pm

I don’t use any fasteners in the brick mould if it will be left exposed and not covered with a finished metal. The screws behind the weather strip I do not fill.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Mon Sep 30, 2019 11:13 pm

Im confused now.
I had to use casing nails to nail the brick molding in place, the molding that goes around the door frame on the exterior.
So I was wondering what you recomend i would fill in the nail holes with?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Tue Oct 01, 2019 8:11 am

Use a exterior wood filler. on smaller diameter holes caulking will work fine.
I forgot you're BM was not attached from factory. I thought you were referring to attaching BM to house with nails or screws.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Tue Oct 01, 2019 10:33 pm

Thanks. Got it painted and door seals on. And vinyl siding all done, but man that top row of vinyl siding was super tough, and took extra long, I would end up cuting them to short for height and then had to re do them and it was just tricky clipping them in there. The heights changed so it was bit tricky. Got them locked in with that divit tool. Had to make the divots a bit further towards the top sometimes and not bottom them out like the tool is set to do. I almost ran out of pcs of vinyl siding altogether, just right down to my last pcs, it was crazy. Lots of short ones on the top row.

NOw the next problem is the lock side of the door, I got the plates installed onto the lock side of frame. But I notice the door is flush on lock side. And not inset for the lock rectangle part to sit in.
Do you know what I can do or am supposed to do? Its not inset and chiseled out as its made of fiberglass. So do I just install it over top sticking out from the surface of the fiberglass door. Im talking about the dead bolt part and other part that goes into the door.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Wed Oct 02, 2019 8:17 am

Ok so most locks and dead bolts come with the flat attachment plate installed over the "bolt" part. in your box there should be a small ring that replaces it. You use a flat screw driver to split the flat plate apart so it will come off and then the ring slips over the bolt and snaps on. This is then all inserted into the hole in the edge of the door and tapped in tight with a hammer. Make sure you have the bolt orientated the right way before you tap it in since this is a friction fit and will not turn later for adjustment.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Wed Oct 02, 2019 10:35 am

Thanks.
I am looking at my dead bolt, and I know I can rotate it and get the rectangle plates off. I see that.
But... My dead bolt measures, 7/8" diameter, and spring loaded clicker thing measures 1". I am guessing it will knock in there and fit, but the dead bolt wont, maybe I am missing a pc, one pc, sleeve?
I can see day light through the door seals too. Not happy about that, top corners both sides and bottom, and middle lock side bit of day light, and i have it pushed closed pretty good.
Maybe wait till I get the locks set in place and then check for day light. Maybe its the way the guy cut my door seals on a 45 degree. Or maybe I need those extended reach door seals that reach out?
Doesnt seem right, brand new door and can see day light...

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Wed Oct 02, 2019 10:51 am

Pic of dead bolt locks 7/8 dia and 1"
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Wed Oct 02, 2019 2:05 pm

Ok so these are both used bolts obviously.
The top one is your deadbolt latch and it is made to do what I described but without the round piece to snap on after you cant do it. Not sure that they are sold separately? A locksmith may have them. Anyways if you find one then you would stick the blade of a flat screw driver between those two plates (one is silver one is brass) give a twist and the small punched fitting will come apart and the two pieces can be removed. I'm not sure but you may be able to buy the entire bolt with the round collar instead of the plate? I have never looked.

The bottom latch is the knob. That one appears to actually be for a non locking knob which is fine since you have a deadbolt anyways. That won has the "combination " attachment mech. if you give the plate a twist (rotation) it will stretch and be able to come off. The round collar is already there it is the silver piece with the groves on it behind the plate, so it will go right into hole on door edge.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Wed Oct 02, 2019 3:52 pm

Thanks, I will look into it.
You asked earlier how much my house was dropped. It looks like its right about 1 inch sunken in the right corner if looking at the front of the house. Is that pretty bad? 26 ft span or wide house at front.
Looked like no footings poured, just a wall, stem wall, I cant remember how thich, 12 inch or 8 maybe.
Probably didnt use rebar hey.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Wed Oct 02, 2019 5:01 pm

1" is not ideal but not the worst i have seen. Has it seemed to stabilize over the years?
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Wed Oct 02, 2019 5:40 pm

Im not sure, As I only found out when doing this reno, ive been here 4 yrs or so. I bet its been like this along time... Built in '56, haha. Oldie. So yea. I think it was an old logging camp houses or cabins, brought in on skids...

I try to send this down pipe drain away from the corner of the house about 5 feet or so. Two are tied into big O, and the other two down pipes are right onto the ground. Apparently these lots, there is lots of gravel or good drainage, were not hooked into city drains... I think thats how it goes. And it used to be a gravel pit along time ago. apparently. So maybe good drainage here.

Man same old thing, the more I swipe the poly urethane sealant for sealing around door and windows, the more it messes it up and gets bits in it and chunks of fabric in sealant bead... and you try to get it perfect, and it gets further and further away from being perfect. haha, maybe, no tooling at all..

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Thu Oct 03, 2019 7:40 am

That sealant sets up quick so that could be more of the issue.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Fri Oct 04, 2019 3:56 pm

Yes for sure. Thanks.
My dead bolt is to small to fit over the new door hole.
So I need a new dead bolt, or need to use a outer sleeve ring to fit my dead bolt.

My cylinder in the dead bolt is Abloy. Whats the low down on locks and dead bolts? Whats your opinion?
Sounds like Abloy is un pickable and un bumpable, and un drillable, etc.
But also sounds like the knew schlage is the same un pickable un bumpable and stuff. So not sure now. Ive seen videos that the cheaper hardward store ones can be picked easy and bumped.

Hey I am seeing day light through my door seals. Do you know what I can check or how to fix that?
Do I need different style door seals maybe that reach out?
I noticed he cut the side seals on 45 degree angles to touch the tops and over lapp, so i cut them flat, but they still have air daylight coming through...

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Fri Oct 04, 2019 9:52 pm

Guy down at the door store where they make the same custom door frames, he was saying I just got to re adjust the reveal and shims. But I can only adjust them so far, as the top pc of door frame comes across and is blocked or runs into the other vertical pc. And bottom level has been set already.
Not sure how Im goona adjust it more. The corners for sure leak air and middle on lock side.
The reveal on the hinge side is for sure way smaller less than lock side. But that is not adjustable as far as I know? hinges bolt in, and thats what you get? Or am I supposed to put shims behind the hinges and bolts to bring that out more. You would think a brand new pre hung door woulnt have air gaps and day light. So I got to fix this or get new door seals... or something...

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sat Oct 05, 2019 8:16 am

I don't think I have ever heard of Abloy? Schlage and Weiser are good brands and are suppose to be un bumpable.

You can shim the hinges to pivot them so they move which ever direction you need them to go. Here is my video on that.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81MhVrRalW0
If you shimmed the frame all plumb and level there is not much more you can do with shims to help the seal. Until you have the knob and dead bolt in correctly you cant tell if the door is sealing well enough. With exterior doors I find most times the borrow corners will leak air and light. There are small felt strips that you can stick to the jamb to help this. Sometimes the doors come with these already.
e3UYT9aXQYmtZqd3bvFyAQ.jpg
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The other thing I have done before is use some foam rope behind the weather strip to keep it from crushing as easily when the door is closed.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Sun Oct 06, 2019 9:38 pm

Thanks, good video.

Yea I have the knob on and clicked shut, its terrible, lots of day light coming through. Will have to shim the hinges over, i have some thin alum tin i can use.
The hinge side is to tight I guess.
I should have an even 1/8 " reveal all the way around?
I guess all I can do it try and shim it like you say, behind the hinges. And theres probably not much I can do for up and down to move it.
I dont have those felt strips, but maybe could use a bit of quad sealant or something in the corners and put tape over it till it dries.

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