Replacing Bay Window

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Shannon
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sun Oct 06, 2019 10:46 pm

The reveal should be pretty close to even..not every door frame is built exactly the same form manufacture to manufacture so the actual reveal will carry very slight.
You are sure the door knob is adjusted right and closing tight enough? Sometimes the strike plate needs to be adjusted to pull the door in tighter to the weather strip. But if what the door is closed and latched you cant grab the handle and pull the door in and out much you should be good.If it wobbles in and out the strike may need adjusting.
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kurt333
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Wed Oct 16, 2019 10:08 pm

Exactly, thanks, I got the reveal adjusted better, and used some alum tin plates three behind each hinge and it brought the door over a bit, so more reveal on the hinge side, and its sitting good, and sealing better, and adjusted the strike plate, and like you say, that brought it in tighter against the seal.
I will just use some sealant in the corners or something like that to take away the very slight day light.
Im pleased with it now. Looking real good, got a dead bolt installed and all that. Sidings all done looks sharp.
Im going to install outside the door, a elec plug in facing down, and installed in the soffit, it seems to make sense, as then i can plug in anything, and then from there, run my wiring down to my door light. I have a little cover for the elec plug in.
And onto my insulation of this room, 2x6. Shimmed out, May shim the other room too I think.
Thanks.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Wed Oct 16, 2019 10:17 pm

I helped a friend put on trusses today, on an addition on his house, good to see how thats works.. will sheet it tmrw.
He is wondering what is the best product and thickness, for exterior insulation, outside of house walls, new build, foam board, best value, and sound proofing, bc climate zone 5?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Thu Oct 17, 2019 7:49 pm

What type of exterior finish?
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Thu Oct 17, 2019 9:18 pm

Hardy panel, climate zone 2 he thinks, if that matters. Hardy on a grid, easy strips or something..
thanks

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Fri Oct 18, 2019 7:27 am

Ok Hardi plank I believe recommends no more that 1" of foam directly under it but I think if you strap the wall over the foam you can go 2". Check the Hardi recommendations. I think that is what I would do. 2" foam, 1x4 strapping , Hardi board
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Mon Oct 21, 2019 1:30 pm

Thanks.
Hey also curious if you have heard of Roxsul rockwool comfort batts that go on the outside of the house, exterior like foam board. but there some kind of batts. He says hes going with that.
I wonder whats up with that, thinking about it now, it looks like it would compress and be no good if trying to mount siding over top of it.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Tue Oct 22, 2019 11:39 am

I have heard of them but not exactly sure how that works either?
I guess you will soon see and let us know.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Tue Oct 22, 2019 10:06 pm

Ok thanks. Yea im not sure if he will go with it, sounds like he is though, Seems not a good idea as I would think it would compress... And no greater r value to be gained I dont think... And foam board is water proof and all that anyways too.

Hey I am insulating now, 16 centers, but I have some spacing where it is under 16 inch centers, like 14 or so. Some maybe 8 inch.
To fill the insulation batts in these small narrow wall spacings, should I cut the insulation batts in small sections width wise, or length wise?
If I cut them all length wise, then I end up with lots of waste pieces that are not doing or used for anything? Just seeing what you think.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Wed Oct 23, 2019 5:35 pm

Cut it however you get the best use of materials.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Thu Oct 24, 2019 5:21 pm

Thanks good call.
Bit of a learning curve to cutting insulation and tricky pcs, I find that olfa knife is indeed working best. Blade all the way out, black blades.. Angle the blade a bit or it cuts it not square hey... i think..

Hey whats your opinion on insulation for exterior walls, 2x6 walls. Pink R22 at 5.5", or Rockwool? I went with pink r22, bit cheaper.
Do you think Rockwool, flakes breaks down? crumbles?
No advantage to go with rock wool, maybe gimicky? or cuts stay nice and square, bit firmer maybe?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Fri Oct 25, 2019 7:17 am

Yes cut the pieces as square as possible, once you do a few you get the hang of it.

Roxul is a good product ,use a serrated blade to cut it. It will not break down that I know of.

You are fine with the pink insulation though also. Roxul is just slightly more R value but more money.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Fri Oct 25, 2019 11:15 pm

Thanks man.
Yea I bought the hd pink insulation and its rated at R22 at 5.5 inch thick, where as there other bags of cheaper pink stuff is rated at R20 at 6 inch thick, so by time your compress it, I believe its R18. So this stuff I got is rated same as Roxul stuff.
It already feels warmer in there and quiet.
Hey so I did fur these walls out, so should I run a bead of acoustic sealant on touching the floor? Or touching the fured out pc? ON the floor i made the furred out pc sit above about 1/8 or so. So there is a little gap under neath from floor and furred out pc.
And I will run acoustic sealant on top furred out horizontal pc too?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sat Oct 26, 2019 7:13 am

You want to seal right in the corner of the floor and base of wall if you can. If you seal actually out on the floor you will create a mess for yourself. As for the top I would do the same , you likely have nothing sealing the vapour barrier on the old ceiling (likely no vapour barrier?) just be careful not to get carried away with using too much or you will have it on the finished ceiling after.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Mon Oct 28, 2019 11:17 pm

Hey thanks, Yea I know its super messy stuff.
Well I furred these walls out, with 2 inch by 1.5, and so I ran the horizontals first along bottom and top plates, and let it sit about 1/8 above the flooring. So I can either seal the vapor barrier to the flooring at the edge of the furing pc, or I can seal it right to the furing pc?
And same with the top plate, on the furring pc or right on the ceiling tiles?
For bottom plate, I could use sealant to the bottom plate to stop and drafts if that is the idea? Then put the furring pc on over top of that, then seal to the furring pc?

Hey when I spray foam the gaps around the door and windows.
Is it the same or better to use spray foam vs. stuffing in pcs of batt insulation?
Does stuffing the gaps with strips of insulation do the same thing?
Because I sure do go through alot of the spray foam fast, 3 cans on door and two windows, adds up.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Tue Oct 29, 2019 7:57 am

Yes you need to seal in the joint between the plates and the floor or ceiling. These will be draft spots if you do not. Sealing the plates during install is fine then you can seal the air/vapour barrier just on the plate at the end.

Sprayfoam is a much better product around windows and doors as it seals and insulates in one product. If you have wide gaps you could insulate with some batt out towards the outer half and then seal off the rest with spray foam.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Tue Oct 29, 2019 12:08 pm

Yes thats correct, I dont have a vapor barrier on the ceiling in these rooms.
Maybe I should send a picture of what I have going on, there was a large gap on the ceiling that I had to stuff with insulation to try and stop any drafts.
So I can seal the corner of the furred out pc? Or should I maybe seal the base plate now with alex plus or something?
I can use acoustic sealant on the acutal flooring and it should be fine? can put trim over it?
I guess you meant if I run the sealant out to far then it can make a mess on the floor?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Tue Oct 29, 2019 12:44 pm

Here is pics of where i would seal acoustic, furred out pc and not yet furred out room.
Where i stuffed in insulation, i could see strapping ontop to hold ceiling tiles i guess, and there may have been air flow right to attic, not sure though, but imagine it was, so hope this will be good enough,
i insulated the attic as careful as i could with batts to r50 to 60.
no vapor barrier in these rooms...
maybe later i could take out all these ceiling tiles and put in vapor barrier and new nice plywood ceiling or some sort... and adjust any insulation needed from underneath near rafter vents where it was hard to get at...
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Tue Oct 29, 2019 2:43 pm

Ok so at the floor level did you cut the laminate flooring back from the furring strips or are your furring strips just placed over it? If it was cut back and you can see the sub flooring then place your acoustical bead right down there at the furring/sub floor joint. If the flooring runs under the furring strips then all you can really do is acoustic to the bottom furring strip to avoid getting it on the flooring and possibly showing later.

At the ceiling use a latex caulking and seal the furring to the tile with a nice bead that will not show once the drywall is installed. Apply acoustical along the furring strip away from ceiling so you don't get it on the tiles.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Tue Oct 29, 2019 4:10 pm

thanks.
In the living room, first room I did, not I didnt cut the laminate back, I was wondering about that if I should, but I put the furring strips right over top of it, leaving a little space of 1/8 or so.
In this next room im going to do, I could cut the flooring back a bit if that is better.

And good idea about sealing the ceiling tile to the furring strip with latex.
Using the sealant on the base plate now and sub floor, just incase, it should help I would think...

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Wed Oct 30, 2019 9:43 am

I would cut the flooring back. It will make it easier to remove in the future. An oscillating saw would work great.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Wed Oct 30, 2019 2:38 pm

Ok I can cut it back easier in the room im working on now, as I dont have the furring pc in there yet. I ran sealant acrylic along the bottom corner, and will fur out by ripping 2x4 in half.
I can score and snap this flooring.
But in the other room that I already did, im not so sure I can cut it away. I dont have a oscillating saw.
I could try making a deep cut in the flooring to try and go right through it. Its vinyl planks...
Or I could just run acrylic sealant on the flooring and furring pc, to seal it? Would that seal it good enough too?
The gap might not be to big, I left the same thickness as flooring is.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Wed Oct 30, 2019 3:56 pm

Ya cut the flooring in the next room but leave the other alone. Seal it as best you can.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Thu Oct 31, 2019 9:04 pm

Ok, I did manage to score and snap the vinyl planks in the other room, but man it was nuisance, I had to bend them towards the floor to get them to snap, and that was not ideal, it kind of made a mess of the grooves on the planks, and took a long time...
I could really use that oscillating tool. I can see how it would be handy, to make a flush cut on something, like trim...
Hey something I noticed, I have nails poking through on my inside walls from mounting the osb etc through the df ship lap. And when I go to install insulation, I think maybe the nails dont poke into the insulation and instead they compress it? What do you think?
This is the r22 insulation so its maybe a bit more dense... or tough..
I may cut the nails off where I can. I didnt in the other room but maybe should have...
Its not as if I want the nails to be sort of creating a air gap, air pocket, and they do stick out an inch or so.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Fri Nov 01, 2019 8:46 am

if they stick in more then 3/4" I would just bend them over with a hammer .
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Mon Nov 04, 2019 12:38 pm

Thanks.
I scored and snapped the nails off with side cutter pliers, and that worked well, and any screws I bent over and snapped or hammered over and snapped. I would rather not have them poking out, they were by inch or so.
So I took apart a section of wall, where the fuse panel is. I suspected it was not well insulated and something would be going on behind there, and yes, it was a mess. There was an old rusty hydro meter behind the fuse panel, that no one bothered to take out, It pulled right down, after I removed the wood supports and un did the fuse panel a bit. None of the holes in the plates were sealed, and not much insulation was in there. The wall section for the fuse panel is made up of 2 2x4's, so 7.5 inch thick wall. Im wondering if I can bring this section of wall down to 5.5". But there is metal conduit tubing in behind the fuse panel, that feeds the wires in to it.
Do you know of a way I could shorten this metal wire conduit, so that I could inset the fuse panel in the wall a bit more? a few inches? I kind of think there is no way. As I may have to be able to cut the tubing away, and to risky...
And I will post pics of this after this post, and if you can tell me anything you see wrong going on or anything to improve. Should all the fuse panel wires coming up from bottom plate be secured and nailed to the left side stud?
Should I install a vapor barrier box behind the fuse panel or to fit the fuse panel?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Mon Nov 04, 2019 12:48 pm

Fuse panel and conduit tubing behind.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Mon Nov 04, 2019 5:35 pm

That conduit between the panel and the socket outside can not be shortened by anyone but a electrician. The power must be shut off at the service entrance and then wires removed and conduit remove, shortened and re installed. New wires fed though and everything hoped up again. Its a fairly easy but time consuming job. Also please be sure that conduit gets all hooked back up to the box properly again and right away and the lock nut installed. If that metal edge nicks through that feed wire you will have some serious sparks and likely a fire. This is nothing to fool around with!

These existing panels are hard to deal with as far as getting a good seal around them without having them completely removed and a vapour box or poly installed ,and even then its not easy when the feed comes through the back side .

Yes all of those wires should be stapled to the stud but be sure none are too close to the front or back surface of the wall cavity. They should be no more then 1-1/4 from the edges of the framing.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Mon Nov 04, 2019 5:59 pm

Thanks,
Sounds like no go on the conduit shortened, Im not going to bother going through all that work and money and paying a guy, for such little gain, I will only gain a couple inches on the wall, small section, couple feet, so no biggie, was just wondering.
And no go on the vapor barrier box for the fuse panel. No prob, i will just seal it up good, all the wiring holes through the plates etc.
And for staples for the wiring, I wonder if I have to put some real large ones for the large wire.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Mon Nov 04, 2019 6:41 pm

Yes there are different sized staples for larger wires.
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