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Hi, I have a room with three way switches. However, the wiring is different than in Shannon's video. The main power source comes into the light. Then it has 12-3 wires going out to the switches. There is also a 12-2 wire which continues past the light to something else (bare wire at moment). The power line to light has power. I wired it the same way the first light in the run is wired. Line continuing past light is now hot, but light doesn't work. Any ideas on what I should try? Thanks
Many areas do not allow this since the rule change of having to have one switch box with a neutral wire but this is how you would do it.
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Thanks for the response. I'm in MO-USA. I presume the wiring is allowed (it was in house when I bought it) as all the bedrooms are wired this way (I think the below link is to a diagram similar to it). There are four wires meeting at the light; the power line (12-2); two switch wires (12-3) and the line to continue on (12-2). Basically, the 12-2 power feed comes into the light. All four ground wires are joined together. The black wire is joined with the black wires from the continuing line and one of the switch lines.The two red wires and the two white wires from the switch lines are joined together (separately). Also the two white wires from the power line and continuing line are joined. I then ran pigtails from the remaining black wire from switch line and two white wires from power/continuing lines to light fixture. At switches, black went to the common screw and white/red to gold screws. Ground wires went to ground screws on switches. I hope with the diagram, this makes sense. I have power to continuing line, but not to switches or initial light fixture, so something in the wiring isn't completing circuit for light. I used the black wires for the common wire at the switches after watching your video. However, when I pulled the switches in a room that works, the red was to one of the common screws and black to the other. Not sure if this has any significance - it does not work in problem room. Only thing I have not tried is going into attic and tracing switch wires to see if there's a break up there somewhere.
What were you doing ? Replacing one of the switches ? The light ?
And I don't understand what you mean by "I wired it the same way the first light in the run is wired" ??
Also, can you get pics ?
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Your diagram does not open? If you wire it like my diagram it will work. Also at the light the wire that feeds something else would be pig tailed in. So power supply black and black of continuing wire and white wire (labeled black) from the switch would be together. The white from supply and white from continuing wire and white from the light would be together. And of course the grounds would all be together and attached to the junction box.
Not sure how to upload or insert a photo on this forum? To answer emtnut's questions, I bought house which I'm in the process of rehabbing. About half the house had wires to boxes, but nothing else. I have been going through adding switches, plugs, fixtures as needed to get lights and power throughout house (I think former owner was in process of updating the wiring). The room in question is the fourth on that circuit (overheads only). All of the rooms are wired the same way as this one, which is why I originally went back and looked at how prior room was wired- it works fine. Shannon, to rerun it the way your diagram shows would take extensive rewiring of that room. I also double checked the wiring in the attic and from what I could see, all is intact. For some reason, the power to light is not completing circuit for power. Is there any way to test just the line to each switch?
Quoted from another thread, appropriate here.
A. Spruce wrote: ↑Thu Dec 13, 2018 4:43 pmYou may want to consider getting an electrical book. Wiring Simplified has always been my bible, it is updated every time the codes are updated and it does an excellent job of describing all phases of wiring, from installing a main panel to changing a lightbulb. Lot's of pictures and written to be easily understood.
The one caveat here is that it is based on the US code, not Canadian code, though from my understanding, they are virtually identical, so odds are you'll be just fine.
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