Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

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kurt333
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Tue Jan 15, 2019 2:38 pm

Thanks guys.
I did end up sanding the paint down and re painting now, but I saw a bit of bubbling now in a small area, and tried to push the bubbling in, then a piece of paint peeled off. So this is quite frustrating. I will just let it dry more, and then resurface or sand down the wall again, go buy more paint... 20$ a quart the scammers. Im just gonna keep moving forward and paint it again later
I have a problem. This work is taking me way to long. This is going to slow. I want to go faster and get more done. Is it a problem to be to fussy. I mean my cutting in and lines down a wall to a different color, it just takes forever. All this work is taking to long, its wearing a bit being so tedious and fussy as I am.

Is it something to keep in mind to work a bit faster and keep the big picture in mind here?
None of this will matter or make a difference really as you come in the house and want to just get stuff done fast and busy and dont pay attention to little details. Know what I mean...

Just an idea, have you seen drywall jobs done, and leave the corners unfinished then fill them in with corner trims? Does this make the job faster or does it look funny? Just a thought.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Tue Jan 15, 2019 4:23 pm

To be honest, a job takes what it takes to get it done properly and to your standards. You can't put your speed up against pros who do this stuff every day. I did a bare stud remodel of a master bathroom a few years ago, a room that was about 8x10. It took me 3 days to hang, tape, and texture the drywall, the painter had it painted out completely in less than a day, and that was with two colors and a priming before top coat. Are you being a little slow or a little too anal about everything, maybe, but you are working at the pace that your skills allow. The flip side of this is, you wouldn't be happy with yourself or the results of the project if you simply slap-dashed everything together.
kurt333 wrote:
Tue Jan 15, 2019 2:38 pm
Just an idea, have you seen drywall jobs done, and leave the corners unfinished then fill them in with corner trims? Does this make the job faster or does it look funny? Just a thought.
Drywall MUST have at least one coat of tape and mud for fire purposes, after that, you can do whatever you want. I am not a fan of haphazard finish work, whether it will be seen or not. If your bathroom were mine or one of my client's, it would get fully finished drywall, then if trim work was spec'd, trim would be installed. To try to substitute trim for taping, you're simply trading one set of skills and problems for another, and quite frankly, drywall is the easier of the two to do easily and to a higher quality.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Tue Jan 15, 2019 6:36 pm

Yup it takes what it takes. A normal kinda bathroom 12x5 , complete gut right back to bare framing back to completely finished is 10 working days, about a day or so less if there is no tiling. That’s me doing it all no subs. But I have also done dozens of these over the years.
The more of this stuff you do the more you learn where you can speed up and where you need to slow down.

I kinda feel like Spruce and I have been working side by Side with you on this one! 7th page on this thread! Wow!
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Tue Jan 15, 2019 7:05 pm

I was going to elaborate on the bathroom remodel I mentioned earlier. I can't say how long the bathroom took from start to finish, as I was in the middle of remodeling about 85% of the rest of the house at the same time, so I wasn't working on any one thing from start to finish, I was kind of jumping around as my time and expertise were needed.

The bathroom was completely reconfigured, a tub was deleted, and the shower was enlarged. All this means that there was framing done and all of the plumbing and electrical were moved and/or modified before the drywall work was installed and finished. We even changed the size of the window. There were also custom cabinets. So, as you can see, a whole lot of work took place.

Strictly referring to the paint and drywall, as I said, it took me about 3 days on the drywall, the painter had maybe 4 hours total into the room, though, with drying time, I'm sure he did it over the course of a couple days.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Tue Jan 15, 2019 10:53 pm

My point was just like your original one Spruce. All of these things take practice and work to get your efficiency up. Doing this as a home owner/ DIYer will for sure take more time then a pro.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Tue Jan 15, 2019 11:38 pm

Shannon wrote:
Tue Jan 15, 2019 10:53 pm
My point was just like your original one Spruce. All of these things take practice and work to get your efficiency up. Doing this as a home owner/ DIYer will for sure take more time then a pro.
Yup! I was just making it clear that I didn't remodel the entire bathroom in 3 days, nor should Kurt feel bad a that it's taking him longer than he expected. I should also say that as a pro, bidding a job, I calculate roughly how much time I think it's going to take, and that is what I charge. If it takes me twice as long, I still get paid the same amount, and there have been plenty of times that I was way off the mark with the time requirements of some projects.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:35 pm

Thanks, well said, makes sense. I will keep being careful and fussy then, it is looking good. If I had to do it again, I believe I would do it much faster, possibly twice as fast, I ripped through the door way section really fast and its done, hung drywall and tape and mud was easy.
Hey when you guys fill in nail holes, do you use the alex plus caulking? It almost seems like the alex plus shrinks back in the nail hole a bit.
Or do you use a wood filler in the tube?
And when you do little touch ups on dry wall dings and paint that peeled off, do I just use drywall mud? or go buy the spackle stuff? Probably a dumb question.

Hey sorry, I can slow it down with teh questions or keep it to a minimum, only asking important stuff if I am allowed. I appreciate your help. Let me know. I just post away as I thought we were allowed, and not private messages.
Ive spent the most time on the bathroom reno out of anything on the whole house. I changed all the plumbing or got rid of the iron and installed pex. etc. Replaced the window, moved it over. I had this stripped down below the floor boards or joists, new plywood and all. And fixed any rot and mickey mouse work that was done before improperly.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Thu Jan 17, 2019 12:21 am

kurt333 wrote:
Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:35 pm
Hey when you guys fill in nail holes, do you use the alex plus caulking? It almost seems like the alex plus shrinks back in the nail hole a bit.
Or do you use a wood filler in the tube?
And when you do little touch ups on dry wall dings and paint that peeled off, do I just use drywall mud? or go buy the spackle stuff? Probably a dumb question.
Depends on what I'm doing. I generally use spackle for nail holes that are in prime eye view and usually use caulk for baseboards, simply because it's faster and easier. Caulking is going to shrink when it dries, so if you want perfection you have to touch it up a time or two. With spackle, you force it into the hole so that it hydraulically pushes out a little bit, then you give it a quick light spot sanding and final coat your paint. The way I usually do painted moldings is to paint them before install, much easier this way. After install, dab the spackle and caulk the joints, then do your touch-up or final top coat of paint.

For wall dings, just depends on what you have on hand, either spackle or drywall mud will work just fine.
kurt333 wrote:
Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:35 pm
Hey sorry, I can slow it down with teh questions or keep it to a minimum, only asking important stuff if I am allowed. I appreciate your help. Let me know. I just post away as I thought we were allowed, and not private messages.
You can ask as many questions as you like, there are no rules against this, you just tend to keep asking the same questions in different ways until you feel confident in your ability to deal with whatever the situation is at hand, which can get a little frustrating from our perspective.
kurt333 wrote:
Wed Jan 16, 2019 10:35 pm
Ive spent the most time on the bathroom reno out of anything on the whole house. I changed all the plumbing or got rid of the iron and installed pex. etc. Replaced the window, moved it over. I had this stripped down below the floor boards or joists, new plywood and all. And fixed any rot and mickey mouse work that was done before improperly.
Projects like this can grow rapidly, which is something that most people aren't prepared for, whether they're doing the work themselves or not. The nice thing is, you now have the satisfaction of having this project under your belt and the ability to take on other similarly challenging projects.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Thu Jan 17, 2019 7:31 am

I agree with all of Spruces points here. I just want to add that I actually do not sand my nail spots. Push the spackle in good and a little wipe with finger over surface to remove excess and then touch up paint when dry. Spackle dries very quick especially in such small spots like a bad nail hole.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Fri Jan 18, 2019 6:17 pm

I have some bigger holes and dents in the wood trim. Original wood trim. Wood fibers ripped off a bit. Wood filler or wood plastic filler or just spackle?
Hey guys. For cutting trim. And building a shop. 2x4 up to 2x 12 cuts. What is the best saw? 10" chop saw dewault Or chop saw that is on rails that also goes front and back to cut and makita brand?
I am looking at the two. The makita has no dust bag.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Fri Jan 18, 2019 6:40 pm

Really won't matter much IMO. Fill it ,let it dry and sand to the profile you need.


The sliding mitre saw will be better if you are cutting many things over 6" . If not stick with the chop saw and use circular saw for wider cuts.
I have never seen a chop or sliding mite saw come without a bag?

Questions like the saw preference could be posted in other topic areas in a new thread instead, if you think of it next time. Things are kinda getting lost in this topic now because we have covered so many different topics. That have nothing to do with the original thread here.

I think near the beginning of this thread Spruced had encouraged you to keep your questions related to this topic /job in the one thread but we have gotten way far from the original question. :D :D
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Fri Jan 18, 2019 8:21 pm

haha, sorry guys, You are totally correct, I have gotten way off topic, but I thought that was how you wanted it to work, instead of starting new threads all the time. My original topic is long gone now and in the wall, yea that if funny now, I went all over the place with this thread. How to drywall.
But hey yea my saw is a makita I got, didnt come with a bag, oh well, and sliding chop saw i think its called. Its not a super big one so thats nice. But the gate on it is a bit messed around with, someone put shims in it or something and wood gate. Anyhow should be good. For 80 bucks cant go wrong, new there big bucks.
Buddy was telling me with a chop saw, cutting 6", you cant cut it all the way through, it comes a bit shy of 6", so you have to flip the board. No biggie I guess, being that Im not doing this all the time. But I will want to cut boards for my shop.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Fri Jan 18, 2019 11:10 pm

I've never been a fan of sliding miter saws, they're never smooth enough for good cuts or safety. Last thing you want to be doing is feed a saw erratically through a board, that's how you hurt yourself! To that end, I prefer a miter saw.

Which type of saw (sliding or fixed) and the size of that saw (8", 10", 12") will depend on what you're cutting. Regardless of the size of the saw, you can only cut about 1/3 of the diameter of the blade, this is what makes sliding miter saws enticing, but a sliding miter is only good for flat cuts, otherwise you're still relegated to the distance and radius that the blade is exposed below the motor housing.

If you are doing bevel cuts, like you would with crown molding, where you need depth and width of cut, a 10" saw will cut 2-1/2" crown, but it won't cut 3" crown. A sliding miter won't help you here, it only gives you added length of cut, it doesn't give you depth of cut. For crown over 3" you would need a 12" miter saw, which gives you added depth of cut.

I suspect that for most DIY needs, a standard 10" miter saw will suffice. This is what I used professionally for years and rarely had an instance that it wasn't enough saw. It wasn't until I bought a wood shop that I upgraded to a 12" miter saw, which was great for working in the shop, but sucked to have to haul it to job sites, just because it bigger, heavier, and more awkward to move around. A standard miter saw is cheaper than a slider is as well, if this is a factor in your decision.

Ultimately, figure out what you're going to be cutting the most and buy the saw that fits that need the best.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Sat Jan 19, 2019 2:57 pm

Thanks guys, I hear both of you.
Yea I would want to cut just 2x4 and 2x6's I think. And large 2x12 would be rare, so then you just cut them with circular saw anyways like Shannon says. Like with all that weight on the end of a the board, I would have to set up a jig and support the end with miter saw, so it might be more work than its worth for 2x12 cuts. I think I would want it just for studs 2x6 cuts for a shop build and molding.
I noticed this makita sliding miter saw I got, the fence is bent on it, and cracked, the guy must have hammered it with some hard cuts that kicked back or away from him. So it is shimmed with hard wood fence, so kills an inch of cutting space. I dont want to do cuts that are dangerous or over load this thing and have it kick back on me. Would rather just use it within what it can handle.
Is it true when cutting a 2x6 you have to flip the board to cut the rest of it, with 10 inch blade fixed miter saw?

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Sat Jan 19, 2019 3:03 pm

You may be able to purchase a new fence for that saw?

For 2x6 I just slightly lift the board on the front edge to finish the cut, but you could take the time to actually flip it over and line up and finish the cut.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Sat Jan 19, 2019 3:20 pm

No they dont make the fence for it anymore, obsolete, I looked. haha out of luck, so its micky moused up with a wood fence. This may not even be the biggest deal, but not sure I want to keep it, may try and take it back and grab that dewalt fixed miter saw for more money. I think i will just stick with the fixed one, sounds good. I dont have enough time using these tools to say which one. But makes sense what you guys say, 2x12 is a rare cut for building a shop and can just cut it with my circular saw.
I did cut all the studs for a house build while working construction, and I do remember sometimes the radial arm saw would jam up or kick back, and it was a scary thing, sometimes with one saw i had pieces go flying back way up and over somewhere, but maybe that was a miter saw. I know when cutting the boards and it pinches or binds, then you get kick back and jam up.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Sat Jan 19, 2019 6:33 pm

99% of the time, it's faster and easier to cut lumber with a circular saw, no matter what it's dimensions. The only time a chopsaw is handy for such things is when you have it set up in a table with stops to make repeated length cuts quickly without measuring and marking every board. Other than that, stick to trim work where you're generally dealing with small, easily managed pieces. This is what chopsaws were intended for.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Sat Jan 19, 2019 9:25 pm

Wow I didnt know that, thought it was used for a real straight cut for studs and crown moldings etc. I can set up a jig. for many studs cut.
I just took it back and got a real beauty almost new model dewalt fixed miter saw 10" blade accepts laser, cuts right through 2x6 no problem, dont have to flip it. Little use on it, and positive locking angles, well made, haha probably totally overkill, I only have a few more 45 angles to cut on small trim, but oh well, I seem to like building and stuff so far.
I am thinking to make my cuts on 45 degree angle for my baseboard trim, I will hold it flat down on the miter saw and tilt the blade over on a 45. Or I can cut it with the trim vertical against the fence and swivel the blade over. I wonder what is the proper way to cut the trims on 45.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Sat Jan 19, 2019 9:29 pm

You can tilt the saw to the angle you want, and lay the material flat on the bed, the problem is, you can only tilt the saw in one direction, so you can't make mating angle cuts all that easily, which is why it's easier to stand the material against the fence for such cuts.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Sat Jan 19, 2019 9:36 pm

Ok thanks. I think that other makita tilted both ways, but could be wrong. Gonna be better than my plastic junk miter box...

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Sat Jan 19, 2019 10:29 pm

They really can't because the motor gets in the way of being able to tilt to that side.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Sun Jan 20, 2019 8:21 am

Actually many tilt both ways now. Usually you are getting into more money for them. I always stand mine up to cut unless it is too tall to cut safely or to tall to not hit on blade arbour which prevents being bale to cut fully through. What ever you do check that the saw is set up properly to cut square both ways. Many need a little tweaking to either the fence or tilt stops or both.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Sun Jan 20, 2019 8:25 am

I should correct that , usually you need to get into the $$ saws for the dual tilt (bevel) to work well. Many cheaper saws have it now.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Sun Jan 20, 2019 12:46 pm

It was a makita LS1011 model, older model I think. The dewalt I have now is really nice, the locks on it are positive with no movement, and quick. I will check it for square again, I checked the fence for sqaure to the blade and looked good.
I have a problem with my trim, I made another mistake, I got a bunch of free trim in decent shape, but it looks like alot of it is made out of DF, so I cut it all and sanded it, and went to install it last night, and it cracked with every finishing nail put through it, even in the middle of it, big crack down the middle. So luckily some of the trim pieces in my pile are pine, I will use it as it does not crack, I will go re cut all my pieces using pine. Unless you know a way around this? Im thinking pre drilling this DF would be silly and not work. Shame, its beautiful wood with nice grain and really strong.
So far I find working with used DF to be a nuisance and cracks all the time with 2x4's, its so hard and brittle.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Sun Jan 20, 2019 1:18 pm

You must be hand nailing the finish nails? If so then predrilling will prevent the cracking.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Sun Jan 20, 2019 1:42 pm

Two things, when you sand a piece of wood with the intent to stain or clear coat it, you MUST sand the entire thing evenly. If you only spot sand or heavily sand one spot and lightly in another, this will cause uneven absorption of the stain and result in shadows and blotching. The reason this occurs is that as wood dries out, it gets hard, sanding removes this hard outer layer to softer material inside, obviously, soft material will absorb stain easily, where the hard material won't.

The other thing, you pretty much have to predrill nail holes if you're going to hand nail because of the nature of a hand driven nail with its pointy end, it literally splits the material that it is pounded through, whereas a shot nail doesn't have the sharp point, so it crushes its way through, hence why pneumatic nails don't split as badly as hand driven. Take one of the nails you're using and cut the head off (the blunt end) and chuck it in your drill, this will act as the perfectly sized drillbit you need for making the hole. When the "drillbit" nail gets dull and hard to use, replace it with a new one. Use a fresh nail to install the trim, counter sink the nail slightly with either a nail set punch or a larger nail, like a 16d.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Sun Jan 20, 2019 2:40 pm

THanks guys. Sorry I did not say, but the wood was already painted white when I got it. But yea I through away all the trim now, and started again using the pine. So it seemed to not crack on a few test pieces, so I will go with that.
I am using finishing nails with a punch spring loaded thing with magnet in it, so it holds it and sinks it in to depth. Seems to be a less dense wood, with looser fibers, so I think I should be good to go, its the same stuff they sell at the stores, sort of joined together pieces if you look on the back side. So here we go again, will try again. Maybe I need to pre drill, if so I will try those methods Spruce mentioned, and thanks about the stain, I did not know that, would be a nice look with that old DF unpainted, but I threw it all way, or cut it up now. Wups. That saw cuts through stacks of it like butter. Real tight hard grain on that wood.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Mon Feb 04, 2019 3:20 pm

Hey thanks guys. Im getting closer to being done.
Just doing the window trim now. And got almost all around it and two nails split the trim, so will have to re cut. I guess I should have pre drilled them.
So just cut the head off a nail and run it in my drill, you mean the cut off blunt end drilling into the wood? or the pointy part of the nail drilling into the wood. I will google this now too. I just need a few more nails in and Im done the window trim and can paint it.
Sinks in and hooked up, I notice a leak, under the sink, at the rubber seal where I thread the large nut thing on the plastic threads. I wonder if I need to use teflon tape on the plastic threads or if maybe I needed the putty on the under side of the sink and rubber seal or something?
I put putty on the top of the sink drain part from the outside and top of sink, not the underside.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Mon Feb 04, 2019 3:53 pm

To use a nail as a drillbit, you cut the head off, the end you strike with a hammer, and chuck this end into your drill. The pointy end will act as the cutter. Change your "drillbit" as necessary for ease of drilling.
Sinks in and hooked up, I notice a leak, under the sink, at the rubber seal where I thread the large nut thing on the plastic threads.
Can you post a pic, this could describe a number of things.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Mon Feb 04, 2019 6:57 pm

Those vanity sink drains are complete garbage now days unless you buy a metal one.
If you find a way to keep it from leaking post it up here cause I cant get them to not leak unless they are covered in silicone! :o :o And that should not be what you need to do.
It seems that the water actually runs down around the drain lip in the sink cause they just don't fit well and are cheap friggin plastic that flexes so you cant even tighten them enough. I have tried putty and also tried silicone between them and the sink drain opening and they 80% of the time will leak with either one. So what happens is the water gets by and runs down the threads under the sink and starts to drip. So again I have tried thread tape and thread GOO and neither one works every time. I have had to smeer silicone on a couple before till I could get an all metal drain assembly. I detest those plastic drains incase you had not noticed! :lol: :lol:
This is Like what i supply now even if the faucet comes with a drain.
https://www.amazon.ca/S2006A-Bathroom-V ... etal+drain
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