Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Sat Dec 15, 2018 7:01 am

I try not to over lap tapes on my Butts but otherwise I generally will have a slight overlap.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Sat Dec 15, 2018 12:31 pm

Thanks guys, that makes sense. And I forgot to take into account the tapered joints, they will take of the space.
Whats the point to light weight mud filler? I kind of wonder why they call it that, its so heavy as is. Just easier to sand maybe.
Im using this sheet rock 90 quick setting powder, says light weight on it. I think it is proving to be a nuisance to mix it up every time in my tray, as I only get a little bit to do a few joints. then have to start again mixing it.
Says for taping and finishing joints on the package.
Its probably for little repairs around the house maybe.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Sat Dec 15, 2018 12:37 pm

The "weight" has to do with sandability. Personally, I find topping compound to be far better than lightweight compound when it comes to finish and sanding.

90 minute mud can be mixed in larger quantities in a bucket if you'd like because 90 minutes is a long time if you've mixed the mud properly. You'll actually only have about 60 minutes to use it all, since the full 90 minutes is what it supposedly takes for full cure.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Sat Dec 15, 2018 2:48 pm

The premixed mud is proving to be much easier to use, I like how it wets down better, really sticks that tape on the wall and soaks it a bit better. Longer work period, Im gonna do the rest with regular pre mixed light weight.
I like the sounds of this topping compound, is it just called regular, or conventional. Its maybe a bit tougher and harder to sand maybe?
One thing I am finding helpful is to measure all my pieces of tape ahead of time and numbering them where they are supposed to go on the wall. Im finding it impossible to hold the heavy roll of tape and cut it all at same time while its on the wall. So pre cutting them seems to work. Not sure how you guys are doing this.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Sat Dec 15, 2018 2:58 pm

Topping compound is a smoother, lighter consistency, and MUCH easier to sand than regular joint compound, lightweight compounds, and especially setting (aka hot mud) compounds. It seems hit and miss these days whether or not the big box is going to carry it. It's my preferred material for final coats.

I tear off pieces of tape as I need them, it's easy enough to make them long, set them most of the way, then cut or tear off the excess. When I have a lot of taping I use an accessory tool hook I have or a piece of Romex wire to hang the roll from my toolbelt. If you have a wire coat hanger, or any other stiff wire, you could bend and use that.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Sun Dec 16, 2018 8:09 am

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 1:12 pm

Ok thanks.
Hey if I dont have a inside corner trowel. How do you do inside corners then? Just with 5 inch knife?
I only have a plastic inside corner trowel, maybe I will try it again, pressing hard seems to maybe work with it.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Tue Dec 18, 2018 1:47 pm

I never got the hang of using a corner trowel, I just use my 6" knife. There are a couple ways to go about it.

1 - Only tape half the joint at a time, let it dry, then do the other half. Upside is that you don't dig out the corner, downside is that it takes more time.
2 - Do both sides at the same time. I will usually mud both sides, then do the finish work. Draw your knife down the first side as you normally would. The second side, you will cant your knife at an angle so that only the corner of the knife touches the opposing side. This will leave a groove, but with practice you can not only minimize the depth of that groove, once you've laid off both sides, you can go back and carefully rework the joint to remove the groove. This is how I usually do it, and I'm not worried about a slight groove when I'm done because a lot of it will sand out OR can be caulked to fill and conceal the groove.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:58 pm

A few posts back I gave you a link to my entire video collection on drywall. Most of these questions could be answered if you watch them.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 3:48 pm

Hey thanks. I have been watching them over and over. Great videos and info.
I just dont have the inside corner trowel, I only have a plastic inside corner trowel.
I didnt see you do any inside corners without the 90 degree trowel. Only mentioned that it can be done. For now I am using this yellow plastic inside corner trowel, and pressing hard and it seems to work ok. But I guess corners can be done with 5" flat knife too?
I tried using the flat knife on inside corner, but it seems to mess it up.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Tue Dec 18, 2018 4:27 pm

kurt333 wrote:
Tue Dec 18, 2018 3:48 pm
I tried using the flat knife on inside corner, but it seems to mess it up.
Drywall is an acquired skill, it takes time to learn and hone the techniques. There is nothing difficult about taping, it's simply a matter of putting in the time to learn how to do it. It's mostly about how you hold and manipulate the knife to accomplish the tasks you have. For instance, do you dob each fastener or do you load a bead of mud on the edge of the knife and swipe down a row of fasteners and back up to smooth/clean off the excess, all in one motion?

How do you apply mud along a joint? Again, do you dob globs on and work it around or do you load the edge of the knife with a bead and draw it along the joint. It takes time to learn how to do the techniques and time to hone your skill at them. Once you've got them, it's like riding a bike, you will never forget, fall out of practice, yeah, but it comes back to you with ease.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Tue Dec 18, 2018 4:46 pm

When doing your inside corners with a knife just do one side let it dry and do the other after it is good and dry. Generally the next day works but sometimes they need a little longer if it is an exterior wall and it is cold outside.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Tue Dec 18, 2018 6:13 pm

Good idea, thanks guys. Do one side at a time with the knife.
I think I saw another guy do both sides with the knife right at once. But I practiced and it did not seem to be working out, so I kept swiping over and starting again. The plastic corner trowel I have seems to sort of work. I kind of dont get it though, as I think i will have to do the corners again, as they need to fill in even more?
Some seem indented, set back aways.
This is alot of work, this drywalling, its like doing a piece of art or something. And so many steps.
Well this is my second coat, and it hit it with 5" knife trowel.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Wed Dec 19, 2018 7:44 am

Drywalling is an art form for sure. No one should ever expect to get it perfect on their first try without time being spent working at it.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Wed Dec 19, 2018 4:43 pm

Thanks. Its tricky.
I tried to do a third coat, but lots of it is not dry yet after a day, so I put a heater in there.
I tried knocking off rough edges and messed some wet spots up.
I may have to do the inside corners again. I should only have to do them once right?
Also I noticed some rare air bubble behind the tape in a un noticable spot it will be. But I cut the bubble out.
I used your patch method with paper attached on one small cut around the fan, to fill in.
I need more mud.
I noticed that I tried swiping with the 12" along a beveled joint, 3rd coat, but I would swipe it, and it would leave streaks, or junk in the mud started coming off, I was going over it so many times, i think the trowel was maybe ripping some paper off and putting it in the mix. I tried wetting the mud down a bit to see if that helps. I used a 12" trowel, and found that I had to swipe really hard to get it to look smooth. It really only filled in the bevel.
Should I go beyond the bevel? It looks like you do in the video, and then taper corners with 5" and then again with 12" over top.
Anyhow, Im gonna probably have to re do my inside corners slightly, maybe try one side at a time method, or go look for a metal trowel. All in all, it looks good enough I know, it would be just fine as is. Compared to whoever did the rest of my house, this will look amazing when painted.
Sounds like I need to buy a primer sealer for a bathroom, then paint over top?

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Wed Dec 19, 2018 5:36 pm

It takes as many coats as it takes to get it to look right. Pros doing production work in tracts will do two to three coats, and, that's when they blow heavy texture over everything. Depending on circumstances and level of finish required you might have five or six coats to get the finish right. It's done when you are happy with the results you have.

Doing beveled seam, you can go wider than the bevel if you have to, but the whole point of the bevel is that you don't add lumps to the surface during the finishing process. If you need to widen your knife work, so be it, but you should be able to make your finished joint flush or slightly proud of the surface and sand it to perfection.

Ideally you won't have debris in your mud as you're trying to lay it off, thus preventing the scratches you're talking about, but, don't worry if you do get them, let the joint dry, then knock down the high points and then apply another thin layer to fill the scratches. If the scratches aren't too deep you might be able to sand them out without harming the smoothness of the joint/wall.

Mud will need to be slightly thinner consistency when using a wider knife, but you still want it to form a bead on the edge of the knife and hold it's shape.

Note about debris in your pan: You DO NOT want to add debris into your pan as you're working! If material is drying on your blade, wash it off and clean the lip and perimeter of the pan to keep from transferring the debris into the pan. If you've swiped across the joint more than once or twice, then you'll be picking up dust and debris from the surface of the drywall, scrape the knife off on the OUTSIDE of the pan, then flick the ball of goo into the garbage. Clean your knife again before going back into the pan.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Wed Dec 19, 2018 7:23 pm

Another trick is running your clean dry 5” blade over what you have done before you repost. This knocks off any little tid bits you may have left behind on the last coat and keeps them out of your next coat.
Like Spruce said keep everything clean as you work
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Sat Dec 22, 2018 10:01 pm

Thanks guys. Yes I knew about the method of running the 5" blade over the work to knock off the bits. I have watched your videos, good ones.
I ended up getting a bunch of good drywall tools at pawn shop for cheap, and got inside corner trowel stainless. So used it to re do the inside corners, works good. Can swipe it quite a bit and leaves a straight edge on it, just have to be careful of angle.
So got everything feathered out, just have to decide on two outside corners and drywall them and sand everything.
So here I will post a picture of the smaller outside vinyl corners. They seem like they stick out above the surface quite a bit hey? I would have to then feather it out quite a bit to make it not noticeable?
Do the paper squared outside corners stick out so much ?
I know Shannon you said go with paper outside corners and Spruce.
I ended up using two 3.6 L buckets of drywall so far, I cant believe how much it uses. I think I need a bit more to finish my outside corners.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Sat Dec 22, 2018 10:11 pm

The tip (square corner) or radius (round corner) does stand up proud of the surface, this is to give you plenty of mud room to cover the fastener and tape the joint. While yours seem a tad tall, that's probably because you didn't push them down into place as you installed the fasteners. No big deal, just takes a bit more mud.

Yes, mudding always takes more than you expect. If all you did was tape drywall, you'd probably know it takes XX amount to do a bathroom, but for the occasional repair or remodel, even experienced folks like myself don't know exactly what it's going to take to finish out completely. I have a pretty good guess, usually about a box of joint and a box and a half of topping compounds for a typical bathroom, but you never know because each one is a bit different
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Sat Dec 22, 2018 10:31 pm

In the top picture the corner trim is just sitting in place and is pushing up binding with the ceiling. I may even go square paper corner for this one, and not sure about the corner where I enter the bathroom tub end wall that my shoulder comes close to hitting.
Hey guys, on some of the taper out mudding, I swiped it so many times, like 20-30 times in some tricky spots on the ceiling till I got it the way I liked it. Im guessing this is not normal. haha. I took me a super long time, but I kind of practiced lots this way. Different pressure pushing down on the 10" knife. From the inside corners, I tapered out about 6 inch or so additional, and used the 10" knife for this. Sometimes 2 or 3 swipes length wise. Sometimes I had to do short swipes down wards with the knife because of room. Sometime I had to use the 5 inch knife because of space restrictions...
Also I noticed, mud is taking a long time to dry, especially in the bottom inside corners. So I put a oil filled radiant heater in there, then switched to my fan heater. Maybe this can speed it up. Im definitely going to have to do a bit of sanding. I have small foam sanding pads for the inside corners and will go buy the hand sander pad with handle for the rest.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Sat Dec 22, 2018 11:00 pm

You have to do what you have to do to get the finish you want, if that's one stroke it's one stroke, if it's 20 it's 20. Having said that, if you're working the mud 20 strokes that's WAY too much, not that it will harm anything, just from a time and expertise standpoint. Ultimately, you want your joints and corners to be as visually flat as possible. Your hand will feel more than the eye can see, so when you're sanding, hold the sanding block in one hand and sweep the wall with the other as you sand. This will tell you where you need more work, either sanding or mud. If you can feel a lump or divot on the wall, you're going to see it once the paint work is done. Using a light at a low angle will help you see some of the irregularities.

Heat rises, so the bottoms of the walls, particularly inside corners will be the last to dry. Set up a fan to circulate the air will help immensely, if you need to add some heat, do that too.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Sun Dec 23, 2018 7:49 am

Spruce covered everything here. Like I mentioned before the corner choice is really up to you but I would keep them all the same style.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Sun Dec 23, 2018 4:17 pm

Yea I do like the looks of the square style, as they look sharp and straight.
Have you guys tried metal paper inside corners, they sell them too.
I had to patch a hole in the wall where I was fixing a elec outlet, so I had made a 14 by 10 " rectangle hole in the wall. I only had one stud to screw to in the middle. So used tape on edges with some mesh tape where gaps were large. Man this fast set drywall and tape works good.

Hey guys, is there differences in quality of primer sealer for bare drywall? Wallmart sells the stuff for $16 a gallon, gliden I think, and then other big hard ware stores sell for 40 I think, and 27 at another paint place. Is primer sealer just primer sealer? Also if you guys have any feedback on the walmart paint, cil and the other brand there. Its way cheaper in price than other places, $18 a gallon, and $28 for there better stuff. Do you guys have any feedback. Is paint just paint generally?
I know for such a small project its not worth experimenting to try and save ten bucks or whatever, but just was curious, for possible bigger paint projects or jobs.

Also was there any point in me using the drywall mud, mold tough, the special stuff? I can probably just use general purpose stuff hey. I notice HD is expensive on some of there stuff, where as HH has general stuff cheaper a bit.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Sun Dec 23, 2018 5:44 pm

Paper tape with metal embedded in it is for doing arched openings, it will give you the crisp sharp corner you're looking for, while being flexible enough to do rounded openings. I would not use it for anything but an outside arched corner because it adds a lot of bulk to the joint and is a waste of time and money. Inside curved corners can be done with regular paper tape.

When you make patches, you rarely have anything to attach the patch to. Get yourself some 1x2 and cut sticks that are 5" or 6" longer than the hole. You want to center the edge of the hole on the 1x2, with each end 2"-3" past width of the opening. Run a screw through the drywall into each end of the 1x2 and 1 screw along the length of the opening. Repeat this on the other side. You want at least two opposing sides of the patch to be supported in this manner. Install your patch and screw it into place. Now you're ready to tape it in any manner you wish. Quick Tip: If you're repairing a doorknob hole, run a stick through the center of the hole where the doorknob will contact and screw it into the existing drywall as well as the patch. Once finished, you can either install a bumper in this location OR rest assured that the wall can now take a much harder and longer beating before the knob will break through again. BTW, doorstops are your friend! I like to put them at the bottom of the door where they will contact the baseboard. If you put them on the door, the stop won't be in the way when cleaning, you simply close or open the door. When installed on the baseboard they're constantly getting whacked by vacuum cleaners and cleaning tools, damaging them beyond use, which then allows the door to damage the wall.

As a professional who has to stand by his work AND someone who absolutely hates having to prematurely redo things, it is my highest recommendation that you stick with quality product, regardless of what it is you're doing. In this instance you're asking about paint, but apply this to everything you do.

Zinsser Bull's Eye 123 is an excellent primer for most things, including fresh drywall. I recommend using two coats on fresh drywall and at least one coat on painted surfaces before applying your top coat of choice. The purpose of primer is to secure loose material like dust (heavily present on fresh drywall) and bridge contaminants like oils, ink, stains, etc., resulting in a strong, stable surface for your top coat to adhere to. Can you use cheap primers, maybe, maybe not, depends on just how cheap they are and how well they do the job they're supposed to. My experience with cheap primers is that they cause streaking and shadows that telegraph through the top coat. They're also usually so watery that you get spatter everywhere while trying to apply it. It isn't worth the risk of having to buy better primer. If you really don't want to spend money, at least choose a good brand, like Zinsser also has a drywall primer for around $10 a gallon if you don't want to spend $23 a gallon for Bull's Eye 123 (regular blue label)

As for a top coat, the same rules apply, choose a good quality brand the first time and you won't have to worry about how it works or holds up. Any dealer brand paint is going to be acceptable, Sherwin Williams, Kelly Moore (my favorite), Dunn Edwards, etc. Most dealers have "good/better/best" lines of paint, one of which should satisfy your needs and your wallet. I will say that I've had VERY good experiences with Valspar brand paints (Evil Orange and/or Lowes carries them), they aren't quite as nice to work with as dealer brands, but good enough and durable enough for large percentage of my paint needs, both professionally and personally.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Sun Dec 23, 2018 8:42 pm

Thanks, That reminds me to repair the busted hole behind the door, where door knob hits. So I just cut it a 3" square hole now so I can patch it. Looks like they repaired it a few other times, its raised, and newspaper stuck in the wall was from 1980.
Do I need to have a stick behind there. Or can I just use Shannons method of patch with paper attached to it? With a stick behind it might be stronger I guess hey.
Im goona go look for a stick and use paper attached method I think hey. Or do I need any tape at all? Do I always use tape on a dry wall hole? just means I have to build up the surface.
And thanks about the door stoppers, Im goona have to rig something up, maybe I can buy a kind that goes on the hinges. Or on the baseboard or floor? I dont really want to drill into the floor.
So yea about the primer, I see at HD, they have bear primer sealer for drywall, that if you are going to put eggshell color on, then you use there $20 a gallon bear stuff. And if its going to have anything shinier than eggshell then you use there $40 a gallon bear paint. Not sure why, but maybe the top coat paint sticks to it better if its shiny. And I did see the zinser cheaper stuff there too. And bullsye, but I dont really want to use an oil based paint in there. I think I will use the pricier bear primer sealer. As it says on directions on the back. Im top coating with bear satin paint.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Sun Dec 23, 2018 10:27 pm

Do you have to use a stick to repair a hole in the wall, no, but it makes the joints much stronger and the patch will hold a lot better when it's getting pounded on by a doorknob. A stick also helps keep the patch aligned properly in the hole. It is my preferred method of patch installation.

Holes of less than 3/4" in diameter can just be mudded, no taping needed, though tape creates a stronger repair. Anything over 3/4" and you're really getting too big for mud to hold on it's own, especially if there is damage to the drywall beyond a clean hole.

About doorstops. I think the best ones are the spring type attached to the bottom corner of the door where it will contact the baseboard. DO NOT use this type of stopper if all you have is drywall, the door will shove the stopper through the wall in very short order. You have the knob bumper type, these screw to the wall at the handset, better than nothing at all, but these will get shoved through the wall too, if there is no blocking backer in the wall to support it. Lastly, we have the hinge style stopper, these work in a pinch, and if you're going to use them, put one on every hinge the door has, one IS NOT enough. The reason is that hinge stops have enormous forces loaded upon them and they break relatively easily, or force the hinges to be pulled out of the door and jamb. This is why the spring style work the best.

I can't say why Behr recommends different primers for their paints, I'm betting that it's because their products don't play well together. I am NOT a fan of Behr products, I have yet to use one that applies or performs very well, They spatter profusely and they don't ever cure, they remain soft and are easily rubbed off the wall. This is why I recommend Zinsser BE1223 Blue Label and dealer brand paint. Not sure why you think BE123 is an oil based primer, while Zinsser does make an oil based primer, the Blue Label is latex. I would recommend a visit to the Zinsser site to see what they carry and the purposes of each.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Mon Dec 24, 2018 9:19 am

I would use a stick as backing for a patch in an area like a door knob hole repair . It will be stronger if the same thing happens again.
As for the corner beads ,pretty much everyone here uses the metal corner with paper attached . They sell the same thing for inside corners but I have never used them and have not seen anyone buy them when I'm around the stores. I don't think Spruce has these items down there so he has not likely seen them. There are flexible ones made for arches as he said but these are different then what you and i are talking about.
As for the other things you mentioned I cant add anything more then Spruce has already said.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Mon Dec 24, 2018 2:16 pm

Thanks guys. Yea I went and bought the paper outside squared corners, I think they look easier to fill in etc. The angle is not as big that I have to fill in and feather out. So I think they will be best, especially around my boxed section vent pipe, i think square looks sharper and tidier and straight.
As for my patches, I did use a stick behind the door knob, seemed to work pretty good, previous people built the surface up quite a bit, probably had been busted so many times before.
I used quick set mud, note to self, this stuff sets up much quicker than 60 minutes, its more like 10-15 min working time. And it starts to be useless to swipe a clean line. But it dries fast. Good for little patches maybe and taping some. I bought the even harder stuff, the orange bag that says its hard to sand on top coats, but meant for taping.
Anyhow, what I noticed so far from sanding patches, it sure makes a mess of the whole room, dust gets all over the place. What a nuisance, wonder if I can do anything to stop that. On the bag, it says use a wet sponge or wet sander or something. Not sure how that would work, with drywall.

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A. Spruce
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Mon Dec 24, 2018 2:28 pm

On doorknob repairs that have been done multiple times, it's a lot easier to take a larger section out of the wall, this will remove most of the thickness buildup that happens with poorly done patches. The fact that there was paper stuffed in the hole indicates that it wasn't repaired by a professional, which also usually means way more mud was slathered on than necessary.

As for dust control, drywall dust is one of the worst because it is so fine. The best you can hope for is to seal the area off and put a fan in a window for negative air pressure, meaning the fan will draw air into the room from the door/unsealed tarping and force it out the window. Second thing you can do is buy a pair of pleated furnace filters and tape them to BOTH sides of a box fan, this will significantly reduce the ambient dust level. There are sanding kits you can buy for a shop vac, but frankly, a shop vac isn't up to the task of drywall dust, you need something along the lines of a Fein vacuum, which is a very expensive, high quality vacuum designed specifically for use in a woodshop.

Using a wet sponge only works if you don't really have anything to remove, and it's actually very difficult to get good results this way. Water softens the mud and the drywall paper. What I have found is that I end up removing mud I don't want touched, not getting much progress with the spots that do need to come off, and the paper fuzzing because it's water logged and the friction tears the surface up. With a hand sander you can quickly get the high spots down and feathered in without causing any unnecessary damage, you just have a little dust to deal with.

BTW, you should be wearing a good quality dust mask when sanding drywall, the silica content of it is not something you want to be breathing.
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kurt333
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Mon Dec 24, 2018 3:00 pm

Thanks.
I wonder what one of those osilating round sanders with bags would do? Know the ones I mean. I have one with the velcro stick on sand papers, I think its random orbital. Its not jitter bug square style. Mine has a bag on it, I wonder if that would collect the dust.

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