Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Mon Dec 24, 2018 3:28 pm

Nope! Not only will it not collect dust, it will destroy the bearing in the between the orbital head and the motor. Ask me how I know this. :mrgreen:

I had to float out a plaster ceiling (with topping compound) because someone decided to "fix" the cracks by gobbing several gallons premix plaster compound. Needless to say, it not only didn't work, it was hideously ugly. I ground down what I could with a grinder, then floated with mud. Because there was so much area to cover I sacrificed my orbital for the job with the Fein vacuum attached to it. With the vacuum, the dust was much less, but still nowhere near dust free. The room (garage conversion) was still fogged by the amount of dust, made worse by the sander's fan blowing it around. By the time I was done, the bearing in the sander was history, about $30 to replace it and the orbital lived on without issues.

For the amount of sanding you have in that bathroom, you shouldn't need power tools. Set up the fans as I have suggested and seal the entrance with painters plastic to keep the dust from geting out into the rest of the house.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Mon Dec 24, 2018 4:22 pm

Yes sounds terrible job. Im just thinking about this less is more, like less mud. I want to keep that more in mind. Sanding is a tough job, time consuming. Esp on ceiling I bet.
I used this durabond 90 quickset, conventional mud, for top coat some areas on my patches, bad choice, as it says on the bag. haha. Its super hard to sand, it is hard surface, more like cement in it. Its tough though.

It seems good for taping and filling screw holes and under coats I guess. But dont want to sand it much, screw holes sand out easy enough.
I could have a vacum cleaner maybe running while I sand some patch small areas maybe. I also wonder if this dust will wreck my home vacum cleaner filters, I have re cleanable type vac.

In my bathroom sanding, I figure I can just put my bathroom fan on, and close the door, and the small amount of air will be sucked in under the door and fan can blow out dust maybe? There is definatly some areas I over mudded, so its gonna be messy.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Mon Dec 24, 2018 5:27 pm

I wouldn't recommend using your house vac for controlling drywall dust or for picking up large quantities. Drywall dust is just too fine, it will get past the filters get into the motor, basically rocks grinding away the insides of the motor. Unless, you're looking for an excuse to buy a new house vacuum! ;) :mrgreen:
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Mon Dec 24, 2018 11:40 pm

You will for sure shorten the life of your house vacuum and bath fan by using them to control drywall dust. I use fans in windows if I can while sanding and i use a shop vac with fine dust bags and filters in place for clean up. First a sweep of the area will make for less work with vac.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Tue Dec 25, 2018 2:31 am

Shannon wrote:
Mon Dec 24, 2018 11:40 pm
You will for sure shorten the life of your house vacuum and bath fan by using them to control drywall dust.
I meant to include the bath fan as well. The dust is not only going to kill the motor of the fan, it's going to coat the blades adding strain to the motor, it's also going to coat the ducting, which will then absorb moisture, then you'll have a real mess on your hands.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Thu Dec 27, 2018 4:07 pm

So I just sanded it all down, and had a ton of dust in bathroom on ground and ledges etc. I used 150 grit, then 240 grit. I had a mesh type 150 grit, and it seemed to leave marks.
I think I may have over sanded it, I can now see the tape on lots of spots, I was pretty aggresive with my sanding. I sanded till the marks were gone. Maybe I only needed to swipe it three times when sanding?
Is this ok to see the tape. I definatly dont want to mud it again and do this all over again.
Also I put the outside corners on, square style with paper, and notice some bubbles formed under neath the paper corners. Do I just cut them out or try and mud over them?
That sanding was a terrible job, dust in eyes and all over. What a mess. Luckily it stayed in bathroom, by having the bathroom fan on, it sucked in air underneath the door, so dust could not really escape out the door.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Thu Dec 27, 2018 5:37 pm

You are way over-sanding! You don't need more than 80 or 100gt paper. Light scratches will be covered by paint, deep scratches, like what a grain of sand would make, will show through. Now, if you're leaving the walls smooth, then you definitely want to take more care with your sanding, use 100gt paper, deeper scratches will show through the paint. If you are going to texture, then you don't have to worry about deeper scratches because the texture will hide them.

It is ok to be able to see the tape through the mud, you just don't want the tape exposed, add more mud if it is. You don't have to float the entire wall, just the areas that need it, thin your mud so it spreads easily and go for it.

Bubbles under the tape usually only get worse over time. Slit the bubble with a utility knife, and work fresh mud under the bubble, that should be enough to get it to lay down. Worse comes to worse, you cut out that section of tape and retape it.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Thu Dec 27, 2018 5:47 pm

Ok thanks.
Yea ruffled up the tape in areas, and drywall paper ruffled up a bit in areas. Maybe I better skim over with mud. I think I did over sand it. But like I said, I used a open mesh style sand mesh, and it left grooves. But maybe I was pressing to hard. This light weight mud filler is so weak, just a finger nail touching it dings it.
Ok im going to buy the primer sealer and keep working at this. Outside corners look good. I guess I need to swipe them out to 10 or 12 inch? Just bubbles in them. I will try cutting them a bit. I still have to try and fill over them too.
Thanks guys. I will try and sweep dust up too. There was lots, pretty big piles. I will try and clean the bathroom fan out with vaccum too, to get dust out.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Thu Dec 27, 2018 6:16 pm

Well I hate to say it but I think I did mention before in this thread that you should not use the bathroom fan to exhaust drywall dust. This will for sure shorten the fan motor life.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Thu Dec 27, 2018 6:33 pm

Ok thanks.
I have quite a few air bubbles under outside corner paper sections. I wonder if its because I used quick set mud. Maybe to thick. I didnt wet it much and or maybe it started to set up.
I am having to cut out a few sections. I will mud over the cut sections.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Thu Dec 27, 2018 7:44 pm

kurt333 wrote:
Thu Dec 27, 2018 6:33 pm
Ok thanks.
I have quite a few air bubbles under outside corner paper sections. I wonder if its because I used quick set mud. Maybe to thick. I didnt wet it much and or maybe it started to set up.
I am having to cut out a few sections. I will mud over the cut sections.
Air pockets in tape are usually because you didn't lay the bed mud evenly, it's too thick or too thin, and you're pressing too much out from under the tape. It doesn't matter whether you use premix or hot mud for tape, if it's not installed properly, it will get bubbles.

When I'm using paper tape, I lay the mud into the joint, then I will trowel it off so that it is about 1/8" thick and evenly spread through the joint. If you're doing a flat joint, you do this once the width of the tape, if doing a corner, you do both sides of the corner. Press the tape into the joint with your fingers, doesn't have to be pretty. Hold the end with your thumb while you press and bed the tape with the knife. One swipe, maybe two should be sufficient. Then apply a top coat of mud and lay it out.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Mon Dec 31, 2018 5:43 pm

Thanks guys. Im going to have to lay some more outside joints around my laundry room entrance over the door i found some rot. So goona need to lay some corner joints square outside corners.
So smooth the bed out to 1/8 inch so I get no air bubbles. Sounds like I had to much air pockets in there and un even.

Hey and about my bathroom drywall. I have been at a stand still a bit on it, as im getting side tracked on other projects Ive found. Ceiling stained a bit, new water leak, so removed the vent I suspected, and sure enough it was leaking from the roof vent, they had nailed the flange all around with the nail gun and cracked this one, it has that black brittle plastic that says right on it to not nail the flange, only the holes that are on it. I think thats why it leaked. Was a s**t job so I fixed it, with a new vent. Pretty hard to pry the top nails out when the vent is right up high on corner ridge. Ripped some shingles. Had to rip the vent apart to get the pry bar up there to the top nails. Got er done. Used roofing screws with rubber washers. Way I like to do it, roofer told me it can be done that way. Used two screws to hold it down, I think I will put the screws also in the two above pre set holes. Says right on it to not nail the flange, and do not use asphault sealent on it... Funny I have researched a bunch of videos and once again, there seems to be lots of different ways of intalling roof vents. Apparently its a no no, to nail the flange in the field, and not the pre set holes. Guys see em crack lots. I suspect the vent I used, the plastic is brittle and it does crack easy, and other vents have different plastic that does not crack.

Hey on my drywall, when I sanded the bare drywall, and scuffed it up a bit and fluffed the paper, the bare paper drywall. Will that leave a rough look after I prime it and paint it?

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Tue Jan 01, 2019 10:17 am

kurt333 wrote:
Mon Dec 31, 2018 5:43 pm
Thanks guys. Im going to have to lay some more outside joints around my laundry room entrance over the door i found some rot. So goona need to lay some corner joints square outside corners.
So smooth the bed out to 1/8 inch so I get no air bubbles. Sounds like I had to much air pockets in there and un even.

I use taping mud or all purpose mud for taping and I find you get dry tapes if the mud is not wet enough and that gives you loose tapes or bibles under them. So always make sure my taping mud is much wetter then normal coating mud. When you apply the mud to the drywall paper surface and then paper tape over that ,those two paper surfaces soak up a lot of moisture quickly and it drys the mud out causing issues like what you are having. Now I don't use setting compound much so i'm not sure just how wet you can use it but maybe Spruce can help with that?

Hey on my drywall, when I sanded the bare drywall, and scuffed it up a bit and fluffed the paper, the bare paper drywall. Will that leave a rough look after I prime it and paint it?
It will be a little scabby looking after primer coats or first coat of paint but I always give a quick sand with a pole sander over the wall surfaces between coats and this really helps knock off any little bits you get in the surface of the products and leaves your finial finish nice and smooth to the touch.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Tue Jan 01, 2019 12:22 pm

I suspect the bubbled tape problem was a combination of things, not enough mud, mud too dry, mud bed wasn't even, too much mud pressed out when tape was laid off, etc. As for how wet hot mud can be, first and foremost, what does the package label say? After that, you can mix it as wet as is workable. The wetter it is, the longer it will take to cure/dry, experience is the only way to know when hot mud is too wet or too dry to work properly.

Fuzzy paper, depends on just how fuzzy it is. Where I am, 99% of the time, walls get textured, so fuzz isn't a problem because the texture is going to cover it. For non-textured walls, a very light fuzz will be fine, as the primer and paint have enough body to cover such things. If the surface looks like your favorite wool sweater, that's way too fuzzy, you will either need to float these areas with mud or sand between primer coats to knock the fuzz down as Shannon suggests. I prefer floating because I don't like disturbing paint.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Fri Jan 04, 2019 4:38 pm

So sand between top coats or primer coats?
The fuzzy drywall paper is minimal I guess I would say, I dont think it will show up but will see.
I have been sanding again, getting these outside corners done, and man alot of dust is on the ground, I still dont see how people can only have a tiny bit of dust... Maybe because my walls were un even and had to fill in so many areas that were no even surface. Or maybe I am applying way to much mud. This is a long process, but it is looking good now. I like working with the mud watered down, it really helps, feathering out.
Hey guys, I am going to have to drywall above a door way now too, where I removed rot. But I am almost able to get this whole job done with the drywall I have. But am having to scab pieces together to make it work.
Is this ok to scab pieces together above where the header is and wall post sticks out a bit.?
Does this mean, anywhere I join pieces of drywall together at a butt joint, I have to use tape on every single piece I butt joined together? Know what I mean. Im trying to avoid going and buying a whole sheet of drywall because I only need a tiny bit and can get it all done with my left overs.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Fri Jan 04, 2019 5:20 pm

Every joint between pieces needs to be taped or the joint will crack through the finish layer. Is it ok to scab pieces together, yes, you will just have a lot of joints to tape which equals more work and time.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Sat Jan 05, 2019 8:23 am

I always sand between coats of paint. Place a sheet of the fine drywall sanding paper on a pole sander and give the wall (and ceiling also if doing them) a quick once over is all it needs. If you have any doubt to what I am saying run your hand over a unhanded area and then a sanded area, you will feel the difference.

Joints over doors near the jambs can have more tendency to crack over time especially at outside doors ( they tend to get slammed more often) I try to install my board so a sheet goes over an entire window /door or have joint closer to mid span of the opening.
And yes like Spruce said you need to tape all joints but using up little pieces is not always worth it by the time you tape it all and mud and sand.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Sat Jan 05, 2019 11:11 am

Shannon wrote:
Sat Jan 05, 2019 8:23 am
And yes like Spruce said you need to tape all joints but using up little pieces is not always worth it by the time you tape it all and mud and sand.
I was going to comment on this as well and decided against it. Time doesn't really mean anything to a DIY'r, their time is free. I can't tell you how many times I've heard clients and DIY'rs say this. A pro is charging by the job or by the hour, so time is of the essence and we tend to do things differently to keep time under control, cost of materials down, and material runs minimized.

Would I normally piece together drywall on a header, no, but I would if it saved me an hour on a material run.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Sat Jan 05, 2019 10:01 pm

A. Spruce wrote:
Sat Jan 05, 2019 11:11 am
I was going to comment on this as well and decided against it. Time doesn't really mean anything to a DIY'r, their time is free. I can't tell you how many times I've heard clients and DIY'rs say this. A pro is charging by the job or by the hour, so time is of the essence and we tend to do things differently to keep time under control, cost of materials down, and material runs minimized.

Would I normally piece together drywall on a header, no, but I would if it saved me an hour on a material run.
True enough.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Mon Jan 07, 2019 4:26 pm

Thanks guys. I ended up buying a sheet of drywall for the header area and cut to size.
I moved at this drywall task much quicker now that I knew what I was doing a bit more.
Im working on third coat of mud now. I used fast set mud for the taping and stuff, so it maybe allowed me to get onto and through the stages a bit faster, maybe.
One thing I do notice is when I do inside corners with tape, they end up being a bit bumpy underneath when dry, so then when I swipe the inside corner trowel, I think I have parts where tape shows through more than others.
This time I nailed all the outside corners, they went smooth, no problems, I think I worked with the mud watered down more and kept some of the things in mind that you told me, just smoothed it out a bit to 1/8 or so.
This drywall is alot of work, no doubt. I think to be fussy, then it takes way longer maybe?
I could probably go faster, but then it might look sloppy, and Im just to fussy it will show up and look bad. To not be so fussy would be funner to do this job.
So I am priming the bathroom drywall now.
I wonder if I should put two coats of primer?
What do you guys think of bear paint, is it kind of thin or watery? I used it to do some patch jobs, and seemed to not cover so good in some spots. Maybe im wrong. My primer is bear too, and top coat.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:30 pm

kurt333 wrote:
Mon Jan 07, 2019 4:26 pm
One thing I do notice is when I do inside corners with tape, they end up being a bit bumpy underneath when dry, so then when I swipe the inside corner trowel, I think I have parts where tape shows through more than others.
Are you sure that your mud is smooth and lump free? Any dry particles left in your pan or storage container can get mixed into the mud. If you're getting dry particles, investigate where they are coming from and mitigate them. For instance, if using a bucket to store your premix, scrape the sides down and level off the surface of the mud left in the bucket, then seal the lid tight. I get pretty anal about this and will actually wipe the sides down with a wet rag to keep particles from forming. If you're working out of a box/bag of premix DON'T! Mud dries on the inside of the bag as it is used and is directly deposited into the mud every time you open/close it. Get a 5 gallon bucket with a tight lid and keep it in this.
kurt333 wrote:
Mon Jan 07, 2019 4:26 pm
This drywall is alot of work, no doubt. I think to be fussy, then it takes way longer maybe?
I could probably go faster, but then it might look sloppy, and Im just to fussy it will show up and look bad. To not be so fussy would be funner to do this job.
As I've said, drywall is a learned art form, it takes time to learn the techniques and time to hone your skills. You're just learning, so don't worry about how long it takes, instead focus on the quality of your work. Speed will come with experience. Being fussy, I prefer the term detail oriented, is a good thing, IMHO, because it will prevent you from doing sloppy work.
kurt333 wrote:
Mon Jan 07, 2019 4:26 pm
So I am priming the bathroom drywall now.
I wonder if I should put two coats of primer?
What do you guys think of bear paint, is it kind of thin or watery? I used it to do some patch jobs, and seemed to not cover so good in some spots. Maybe im wrong. My primer is bear too, and top coat.
I almost exclusively use Zinnser Bull's Eye 123 blue label primer. It is an excellent general purpose primer. I almost exclusively use Kelly Moore paints, but any professional dealer brand paint will give you excellent performance. I have been forced to use Behr on several occasions and I can honestly say it is the absolute worst paint! It spatters, it doesn't cover, and it doesn't cure. If you want a good performing yet inexpensive paint, Valspar is a good one, other than that, stick to dealer brands and stay away from big box offerings.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Wed Jan 09, 2019 1:01 pm

Yes mud was lump free for inside corners, maybe it just set up to fast or I put it on to thick, not sure, but seem to have a few waves underneath, or maybe its where I overlapped the tape. Its minor and not noticable, looks good. I will check it again, I think no issue. But thanks. You know what, it may have been where I overlapped tape in sections, I will look into it. I ran the horizontals touching inside corners, then ran the verticals right over them, so doubled up tape.
Hey I primed the bathroom drywall, there is still a bit of green drywall show through. Wonder if I should give it a quick one more over in the show through spots?
What I did notice, is like you guys said, once over with the light sand paper, takes off the rough stuff, and you are right, the roughest spots are where the paper was fuzzy underneath, and light sand takes all that right off, no prob. Can feel it with my hand. So I will do a light sand between every coat I guess?
Another thing I notice, is when I shower now, I really notice the moisture condensing on the primed surface of the drywall. Just will run the fan till its gone and get a timer switch.
About the paint, I think I remember you saying that about the bear paint. I wouldnt mind trying other paint next time. I think we have benjamin moore paint here, but not the others you mention, and there is some others. I have heard the benjamin moore paint is good. Ive heard there is a few big companies in the states that own the big zinc oxide suppliers, and everyone has to buy it from them. Maybe that is only used in the primer or in all paint, something like that a guy was telling me at dealer paint store. I notice Shannon using the beauty tone in the one video. Probably decent paint too at that store, ive heard their paint is good too. Shannon what paint do you like to go for, or works good for you?
Hey guys, do you have any feed back on that drywall mud, that when you sand it, its supposed to fall to the ground, like not float in the air, but fall straight down, like its heavier or something?
It says on one of the bags or containers at hd about this mud.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Wed Jan 09, 2019 1:13 pm

You should always two coat prime for best results. If you've already put two coats on and the finish is uneven or shadowed, apply another coat to the entire wall. Any unevenness now will telegraph through your top coats, hence why you want to take your time and get your prime coats even. Same goes for top coats, start with two coats as even as possible, most of the time this will be all you need, on the rare occasion, usually with dark colors and/or color changes, you may need a 3rd top coat.

I've never had a problem with any dealer brand paint, which is why I recommend only using them. Big box brands tend to be very cheaply made (regardless of shelf price) and you should unless you are familiar with the brand and how it performs. I've seen Kelly Moore and Valspar at big boxes, both of which I can vouch for. Glidden, Behr, and another "designer" brand that is escaping me are the most common big box offerings and they're garbage.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Wed Jan 09, 2019 2:45 pm

I pretty much use all Ben Moore" Aura " paint. I still use Beauty tone now and again on trim or iff i am using a primmer before I paint. Aura is a primer/paint in one product but pricey.
I tried that "dustless" mud once it was a real PITA to sand..much harder! But it was pretty true to its "Dustless " promise, it did not get as air borne.
Sometimes I will set up a fan in a window while sanding if the conditions are right to create a bit of a negative pressure and keep it from filtering around.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Wed Jan 09, 2019 5:09 pm

Sounds like Beny moore or kelly moore is the way to roll. Same company? Heavy hitters in teh states, i think there the guys that own the pigment zinc oxide companies.
So Shannon, when you say you use ben moore paint aura primer paint in one. Do you mean then sometimes you dont prime the bare drywall with a designated primer sealer?
Beacause I heard that is not true, when bear says paint primer in one, dealer guy was saying there is no way they can do that, because primer sealer has a different make up, its just a gimick that they say this. What do you think? gimicky?
Bear does seem kind of watery, but im not sure, I have not used anything else. Well I did use clover dale paints, and its good dealer paint, its canadian. I think alot has to do with your prep, what you have done underneath if you have preped it or primed it properly. But I could be wrong. I havent painted enough to do a comparison. But it would be safe to stick with the heavy hitters like Benny moore etc. I have done lots of auto body work with fillers so it is a similar game as this in ways.
Oh and I varified that I think where I doubled up layers of tape on the inside corners is what lead to my wavy or bumpy a bit on the inside corner tape, no biggie. Gotter all muded i think here on my door way, getting better at this game, thinning mud out and stuff where needed, spreads nicer I think.
Priming it makes it look beauty.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Wed Jan 09, 2019 5:22 pm

I never prime new walls, two coats Aura and done.Including bathrooms. Ive been using this for around 5 yrs I think ?? Maybe more..Not sure but it would be in there somewhere. I have never had a call back for a paint problem that i can recall.
I was asked by a client to use it because at the time it was pretty low VOC level and she was sensitive to those kinds of things. I loved it from that day forward. In my jobs I spec. it if there is no preference from the home owner for something else.
NO I am not sponsored in any way by Ben Moore. I wish I was cause that stuff is like about 80$ a gallon up here. I find it covers very well and goes usually as far as they say (400sq. I believe) at least. Now some people say they can one coat with it and be done and maybe with a primer on walls you could but I always do two for sure.
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A. Spruce
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Wed Jan 09, 2019 6:31 pm

I'm old school and prefer primer then paint. The whole point of primer is to knock down the dust and seal the surface so that it is stable and ready to accept paint. In fact, raw drywall primer is supposed to be a bit runnier so that it can grab all that dust and stabilize it, as opposed to a thick film that has to bridge over the dust and results in a poor bond.

I may have to try P&P-in-1 some time to see how it performs. I wouldn't have a problem over an existing surface, but it just doesn't seem right to put it over raw drywall.

The point of this post was simply for information, I'm not trying to argue one method or product over another. 8-)
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by kurt333 » Sat Jan 12, 2019 2:01 am

Im with Spruce on this one, to use primer first then paint. The primer does dry fast too.
I watched one of Shannons videos on priming walls, and that is helpful.

Hey guys I got to my second top coat. And I think I screwed up a bit. On my final coat, I got it all done, and there was a section, I wanted to lay the paint on a bit heavier, so while it was still wet, and drying, I rolled on another roller full of paint, thinking I could hide a bit more underneath, and it gave it a un even ugly look in areas that it picked the drying paint up and ripped it up. It was still wet sticky so it pulled some of the paint up and made it look bad. This was dumb that I did that. Because everywhere else looks nice and even and smooth.
So how can I fix this? Maybe light sanding down? Then top coat over one more time.

This has been a ton of work, and Im done the drywalling and can now move onto trim and installing sink. Im glad I learned the basics to the trade and can handle other jobs if needed. Thanks for your guys help and patience. Maybe I can show pics of finished work.

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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by Shannon » Sat Jan 12, 2019 8:56 am

Yup after you have layed down the original paint and moved on a bit ,it is never a good idea to go back over an area that is neither completely wet or completely dry. The problem now depending on your paint thickness is you will see those patches through any new coats of paint because the surface is damaged. You may have to actually skim those areas with mud,sand, prime spots and paint entire wall again with two more coats.
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Re: Main Vent Stack ABS Pipe Sweating Moisture Buildup-Insulate?

Post by A. Spruce » Sat Jan 12, 2019 11:27 am

Depends on how damaged the paint is, if it's simply a different texture, lightly sand the area and recoat it. If it pulled paint, then you might get away with sanding and spot painting, but you're probably going to have to fill/float the area with topping compound, then prime and paint the area. You may have to give the entire wall another top coat to blend it all together, but because this is new paint, you might get away with spot treating.
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