Frame under Spiral Staircase

Ask your questions pertaining to the interior that don't fit in the above categories
Post Reply
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2018 4:23 pm

Frame under Spiral Staircase

Post by hhiggins » Fri Mar 01, 2019 3:00 pm


Looking for ideas on how I would go about framing under our spiral staircase that leads into the basement. We would like to close it off and use as a storage space.

file-6.jpeg (2.6 MiB) Viewed 94 times

User avatar
A. Spruce
Posts: 6314
Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2016 5:23 pm
Location: California, USA

Re: Frame under Spiral Staircase

Post by A. Spruce » Fri Mar 01, 2019 4:18 pm

Aesthetically, I think it will look best if you curve the wall to the same shape as the stairs.

1 - Cut a piece of 3/4 plywood that fits from the wall on the left to the foot of the stairs and wide enough so that the curve will be fully upon the plywood plus the width of your framing. The plywood is what you'll be cutting your bottom plate out of.

2 - Using a plumb-bob, transfer the face of the curve to the plywood, having a helper here will make this SOOOO much easier and faster. It doesn't have to be 100% accurate, but do get it as close as you can.

3 - Assuming you're using 2x4 to frame, use a piece of scrap 2x4 and trace the inner line of the curve. You do this by holding the 2x on end, put the leading edge on the plumb line and trace the back edge of the 2x.

4 - Cut out the curve with a jigsaw or rough it out with a circular saw and shape it with a belt sander. Cut a second piece of plywood using the first as a template. You will stack the pieces for your bottom plate.

5 - Mark your layout lines on the curved piece of plywood where your framing studs will be and set the plywood back into place.

6 - Using the plumb bob, transfer your layout lines from the plywood up to the edge of the bottom of the stair. From these marks you will be able to measure and cut your studs.

7 - You will need to figure out the cut angle for the top of the stud, the easiest way will be to cut an intermediate stud 2" too long, hold it in place with a level so that it is plumb, then scribe your cut angle. Measure that angle with a protractor or speed square and set your circular saw to this angle. Cut and test fit until you get it to fit the way you like.

8 - Place the bottom plate in place, then cut your studs and fit them into place. Screw them into place. I would space the studs 1/2" back from the surface of the stairs, the drywall will finish out flush for a clean look. Alternatively, you can move the framing to the back of the stair face so that the stairs overhang the wall a bit.

9 - Use 1/4" drywall because it is more flexible than thicker product and apply two layers to the wall. It may help to lightly dampent both sides of the drywall to make it a little more pliable. It may also be helpful to make a cardboard template of the wall and transfer that to the drywall, rather than trying to measure or cut it in place.
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

Post Reply