Replacing Bay Window

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Shannon
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sat Sep 07, 2019 8:19 am

Ya vinyl gutters are not great. I would go with aluminum
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Mon Sep 09, 2019 12:39 pm

Yea Ive heard that, and havent seen them installed on many houses. What about just using the vinyl down pipes? Maybe thats ok? As they dont dent up. Some of my alum ones are dented pretty good.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Mon Sep 09, 2019 3:04 pm

I suppose you could maybe. I have really never really looked at them much before but likely would work?
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Mon Sep 09, 2019 4:11 pm

I would think the vinyl down pipes would be superior in every way, no denting and corrosion. I will probably eventually get new ones for my house on all corners, can get square style ones at hh and more rectangle kinds at hd.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Tue Sep 10, 2019 8:17 pm

I want to put the siding on now. But heres the thing.
I have the orginal siding here. It looks like I have just enough to do this front side. But here is roughly the lengths I have.
7pc of 9 ft
17pc of 3 ft
14pc of 2 ft
16pc of 4 ft.
So do you think it would look funny or odd to have so many short pieces on the house?
I dont have the bay window now, so I have more long runs needed. I estimate my long pcs will cover about 3 rows up, and thats it, the rest will be short pcs. What do you think?
Only other thing I can do, is maybe custom order this exact profile and color from a store here if they have it.
Or put on HD siding, on instock white dutch lap d5 or whatever they have. I have d5 bevel which they dont have instore, all custom order. The other store may have a white in the profile I need.
Or I could put a slightly different color and profile on from HD instore colors, sand kind of colors etc.
Do you think this would look odd haveing a different profile on the front face of the house and the sides and back are the original profile and color? Maybe not as noticeable?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Tue Sep 10, 2019 9:10 pm

Oh man this has got on so long I forgot you moved a bay window. :lol: :lol:
Ya that is a lot of short pieces and would look better with less joints. IMO if its in the budget I would order what you need to match what you have if its still available.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Tue Sep 10, 2019 9:25 pm

You sure are right about that, going on long, its crazy. The door is ready I think tmrw, and this has been a good learning experience job again, learnt lots, this was a big one.

Or another thing I could do is run vertical siding on the bottom or something and then mix it up, and run my original pcs horizontal. Might look sharp, or dutch lap in different color, thats with the flat face.
I would have to wait for any custom order for colors etc from HD, not sure how long the wait is. And custom order from hh to find the exact same color and profile as I have.

Yea I guess before it ran into the bay window before and then ran into the door, then the only long pcs were under the windows.
If I were to go with what I have right now, it wouldnt be more suseptable to let water in would it?
I could go with brand new siding on front face, i dont even need a box full, like 160 sq ft i estimate.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Wed Sep 11, 2019 7:38 am

Ya the more joints the more chances to let moisture through IMO.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Wed Sep 11, 2019 12:35 pm

K thanks, gonna go look at hd siding ans look at custom order,
i do have a ton of used d5 dutch lap in white, could use that too, only for the sake of the longer pcs of vinyl siding,?
On this hd has best prices on siding at i think 130 a boxI

I could also split the colors horizontally, do my tan sidin on top and maybe a grey on bottom?
How do i sepererare them? Just with a drip cap or j chanel?
I dont like the idea of having a j channel if thats the case, running horizontally?
If i do this the profiles would probably be different again, so may look funny?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:18 pm

If the two will hook together I would just do that for the best look and transition.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:40 pm

Have you seen that before, with lots of short sections? Like 2, 3 and 4 footers?
May look messed up? I just cant picture it. I could go buy some other profile or use my different profile stuff i have.
I just think to order the exact same thing i have is not going to happen, or take to long.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Wed Sep 11, 2019 8:33 pm

Im not saying you can't do it. From one direction you usually cant even see the joints but from the other way you can for sure. This is a call you need to make for yourself.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Fri Sep 13, 2019 9:45 pm

Ok i got almost all the siding on, i just need to install door to trim around it etc.
I will take my chances with the original siding, it looks ok so far, no perfect, but its bright and way better than before.
Where the siding joins, there is sometimes, some air gaps at the bevel vinyl siding d5. On the side you see the gaps, im not sure why it bends out like that on some pcs.

Hey I am still alittle unsure on whether to run the door flush with the foam board on the outside of house? or
Flush with the osb under the foam board?
The drip edge of door thresh hold sticks out 1 inch i think, so it i ran it to osb, it would be 1/4 left of drip edge over hang to foam, and then of course I may want to install J trim or trim underneath door, so maybe not enough?
And if I ran it flush with osb, then also the brick mold wont stick out much? And j trim touching it will extend further to outside than brick mold.
So it would seem, that I should run it to flush with the foam board??

I will just need to level the door sill, with shims or flat pcs?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sat Sep 14, 2019 7:49 am

Yes I would cut out the foam and replace with the appropriate thickness of wood (same thickness as foam) and then install the door onto the wood.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Sat Sep 14, 2019 10:11 am

The pre hung door comes with no brick mold...
The foam goes to edge of cut out of door...
hmm, now still not sure, you mean shim out, like 2 inch strips at 3/4 thick as thr foam is?
I may have to dryfit this to see all how looks

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sat Sep 14, 2019 5:12 pm

You still need to add a brick mould to finish this off . How did you plan on covering the edge of the foam or finishing the outside of the opening??

I'm not digging back through this whole post so remind me again how thick your foam is?
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Sun Sep 15, 2019 1:41 am

Hey sorry, ya of course i will run brick mold,
3/4 foam board,
next layer is 1/2 inch osb sheathing, next layer is
3/4 df ship lap, and then
2x4 wall
i will do dry fir soon to see whats up...

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sun Sep 15, 2019 8:20 am

So cut the foam back 1-1/2" on sides and top from the edge of the RO. Install 1-1/2" strips of 3/4" plywood in place of the foam you removed.
Now you have two options:
#1 install the door frame flush to the drywall inside and add wood extension to the exterior edges to make it flush with the new plywood you just installed ,next add the brick mould. This only works if your sill plate is deep enough to stick out past the face of the finished wall outside.

#2 Install the door frame flush to the new plywood outside, add the brick mould and then add wood extensions inside to the jambs to make them finish flush to the drywall finish.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Sun Sep 15, 2019 12:59 pm

thanks very much.
Yes that sounds good, I like that idea of putting the 3/4 plywood around the opening, that gived it a good base to attach too.
It sounds like option #2 will be the way to go.
As I already know if I mount door flush to the osb like the next layer past teh foam, option 1, then the door sill plate only sticks out past the foam board 1/4 inch, and that is without the j channel or undersill trim installed... So that may not be enough for water to run off and hang over not enough.?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Sun Sep 15, 2019 7:23 pm

Yup option #2 it will be then.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Sun Sep 15, 2019 10:35 pm

Hey so i ran the 1.5 inch wide wood around the opening, worked perfect.

Then i put a 2x4 under the header to shim that down. But there is about 1/4 inch gap at the top of the door frame. I wonder if I need a bit more than that.? 3/8 or 1/2 maybe better for foam.
So and on the rough opening of the door way sill. I sort of built it up so water would drain towards the outide of house. So there is a bit of a slope.
I wonder if i should rip that out, as the door wont sit super flat over top of that?
I will need to shim the door sill a bit, on the one side. I am sort of wondering if by the time i shim it a bit, then it will be to close to the header. I will check.

I have 5/8 gap on both sides, side to side of door frame. Maybe a bit much?
Maybe I should throw a pc of 1/2 osb on one side to bring up the gap a bit?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Mon Sep 16, 2019 7:07 am

As long as the brick mould will cover the gap and you can get the sprayfoam straw in the gap to foam you are fine with any of the gaps you have mentioned.
Use shims to support the sill on your sloped bottom, foam the gap and you're good.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Mon Sep 16, 2019 9:24 pm

Thanks that makes sense.
Hey so what I am running into now, Is i dry fit the door, shimming it side and top and bottom all just right so gaps are right.
I run the 2x6 frame door flush with outside of foam. And I notice, the screws on hinge side and lock side, will not bite into the studs... Not good, not ideal. Only way I could get them to bite into studs is if I run the door towards the outside of the foam even further, like inch maybe. When I screw the long screws through the hinge side, through the hinge, it touches the very edge of the 2x4.

I am questioning my decision to buy a 2x6 framed door.
Maybe the 2x4 door would have worked and i would have still been able to shim my walls out?
I have shimmed my walls out to 2x6, just have not finished the area around the door yet.
Or I could screw in two pcs of 2x4 flat vertically, on both sides of door, and then the hinge and lock side will be screwed into there securely. I hope it would work like that...

And yea I had to bring the height of the door header shims up, as i could not fit the foam straw in the gap.
I have the sill level on door way. I will then put in shims after too in the middle part or add a bit. if thats ok. And run the urethane sealant under the door. Cant really get foam under there , as the gap is so little, i shimmed it about 1/8 or so, wide of vinyl flooring, used that as a shim.

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Tue Sep 17, 2019 12:03 am

Pull the foam weather strip forward a little and insert screws through the jambs behind it. Will that work? Why is there nothing to screw too? Picture would help maybe.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Tue Sep 17, 2019 12:20 pm

That may not work at this point, I will have to go look at it again. It actually may not do anything unless I attach a 2x4 to the king and jack studs. Know what I mean. I think anything inboard of the hinges screws and dead bolt plate, dont bite into any studs, they just reach the very edge of my 2x4 studs...
Know what I mean. I will try and get pics later if I can.
I may have to mount some 2x4's onto the king and jack studs, so it has something to screw into...
Or I could try and mount the door outboard of the 3/4 foam, or plywood I put around the perimeter. Then the screws would secure into studs.

Do you think maybe I should have ordered the 2x4 framed door, so that it would have mounted into studs? would have maybe been more lined up with 2x4 studs hey?

Do you think I could run this 2x6 framed door beyond the foam layer towards the outside, or is that getting a bit far out? Stepping on the sill may bend it out, flex the sill unsupported?

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Tue Sep 17, 2019 1:32 pm

I think my only option is to attach 2x4 to the inside.
I dont think it would work so good to bring the door further towards the outside.
Or I could re frame the door with 2x6, which is probably what I should have done in the first place maybe. Or just fur it in, seems to be the best option.
Without doing this, the hinge screws wont be screwing into anything, or the dead bolt either...

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Tue Sep 17, 2019 9:18 pm

I’m really having trouble understanding why you can’t hit any wood?
You have 3/4” foam over 2x4 wall framing and you have a 2x6 because you wanted to frame another wall inside of the house to increase your wall thickness. So why are the screws not able to hit that interior wall?
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Tue Sep 17, 2019 9:41 pm

I have, from the outside to in:
3/4 foam board
1/2 osb
3/4 ship lap
2x4 studs =
so thats a total of 2 inches of outer layering and 3.5" for 2x4= 5.5" total

The door is 2x6 I ordered and have here, and studs framing around the door, is 2x4, and will add furing to it to bring it out to 2x6. So I guess because I didnt frame it 2x6 around the door, then it wont hit studs. So will have to add the 2" furing to it...

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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by Shannon » Wed Sep 18, 2019 7:39 am

Ok I see yes you need the furring to work out.
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Re: Replacing Bay Window

Post by kurt333 » Wed Sep 18, 2019 10:52 pm

I ended up, removing the 2x4 jack studs and putting in 2x6 studs on either side for jack studs for door frame.
So it was the hard way, but I think it will be better then to make sure I get the screws biting in.
I took the door off the hinges, so I will install the door frame jamb next, just hinge side, get it leveled, then install the rest with the door on, and set reveal?
I will put the shims just above the hinges ? Or do the go right at the hinges where I run screws through? Maybe it doesnt matter.

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