Installing T&G Pine on wall?

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Installing T&G Pine on wall?

Post by Jmaclicious » Fri Nov 10, 2017 6:32 pm

Hey Shannon and others, my co-worker is in need of help, he wanted to install T&G Pine on his interior upstair walls, i guess over the existing drywall.. He has some Oak mouldings/jambs around the windows and wants to keep those and have the cuts tight... and then mentioned in the corners to be tight or may needing to be scribed. I thought you needed to leave room for expansion and contraction and thats why people use the cove mouldings in the corners of the two walls giving me a bit of leniency. How would you go about this project?

I was going use my laser level and start the first row off the floor around 1/8 - 3/16" off of the floor unless he is going to put baseboard moulding then i can move it up to 1/4" off the floor, working my way up and toe nailing the tongue. And then for where the two walls meet I guess I could just start with the one back wall first, and have the two side walls butt up against the back wall to conceal the joint, but how much gap should I leave?

I would like to get pictures but he is so old school and does not have a phone and lives outside of the city. :(

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A. Spruce
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Re: Installing T&G Pine on wall?

Post by A. Spruce » Fri Nov 10, 2017 7:40 pm

Do yourself a favor and locate every stud in the room and snap a chalk line down the center of each one, this will infinitely speed up the installation process by not having to hunt for them later when you're nailing.

You definitely want to leave the drywall in place as a fire barrier. Drywall helps slow the spread of fire, whether it originates inside or outside of the room.

The existing door and window jambs should already be flush with the drywall, so they'll need extensions installed to bring them out flush with the pine you're attaching to the walls. If you can't buy oak strips off the shelf, then you can have any millworks, woodshop, or cabinet shop make you some. You could cut your own, but you'll need to be able to surface 3 sides, which means you'll need a tablesaw and planer.

I think your methodology is sound, starting 1/8" to 1/4" off the floor. You'll want to start as level as possible and then check every 3rd or 4th row to make sure you're maintaining level progression all the way up the wall. You also want to calculate how many rows you'll have BEFORE you start so that you can adjust your start row width to be able to end with a full width piece at the top. Example, the average wall is 96-3/4", if your planks are say 3" wide this means you'll use 32 planks and have a 3/4" gap at the top of the wall. To rectify this, you'd start with say a half width plank, then when you get to the top you'll have nearly a full plank at the top of the wall, trimmed slightly because you'll probably need to cope it to the ceiling contours.

Watch your nail lengths, you'll need a nail that is equal to the thickness of the plank material plus 1/2" for the drywall, plus 1/2" to 3/4" penetration into the stud. Try not to go any longer, because you could easily pierce wiring within the walls and have a real nightmare on your hands. You can alleviate this a little bit by marking out where the wiring is, which will be 14" to 20" from the floor. I believe code is 16", but we all know that wires get run wherever it's easiest to run them, so allow for this and mark the walls out so you are more diligent about watching your nail length in this area.
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Re: Installing T&G Pine on wall?

Post by Shannon » Sat Nov 11, 2017 8:21 am

As Spruce said your window and door jambs will need to extended to accommodate the new wall thickness.If the jambs are also oak then some oak plywood should do the trick. Personally I would use some of the [email protected] pine and make new trim but that is your buddies choice I guess.
At the corners I would leave it so it is not right tight it is a PITA to scribe the end of every row and even worse to line up every single groove/joint perfectly. These boards can be milled slightly different and never match up perfect. You then use a small trim in the corners to clean it will not notice slight deviations as easily that way. I have cut my own at times from the scrap T&G left over ,which is cheaper then buying the actual pieces. Usually I will cut simply 45 degree pieces or you could cut strips and router them also.It takes some work though to do all that so if time is your enemy then buying trim may be the way to go.
Also I like to use a 16 gauge nailer for this work as the nails are a little heavier and hold better in this soft wood.
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