Kitchen table design help.

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Dwils204
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Kitchen table design help.

Post by Dwils204 » Sat Mar 03, 2018 3:34 pm

I am making a table for the first time. Never tried my hand at furniture before and I am going to breadboard the ends of the table and plan on doing zero cross grain screwing for the table top to avoid any issues in the future. The problem I am running into is that I have decided to use 2x10 for the top and need to know if a 4 inch mortise and tenon will be large enough to support that breadboard ends with a person eating dinner from it. I can easily make the mortises and tenons 1/2 inch this and have the ability to get almost halfway through the length of the end boards (They will more than likely be just under 9.25 inches when all is said and done with jointing and planing). Is that going to be enough support?

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A. Spruce
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Re: Kitchen table design help.

Post by A. Spruce » Sat Mar 03, 2018 4:39 pm

I'm not sure I follow the question. What is a 4" mortise and tenon and where would it be used?

If you're going to M&T the ends of the table to the end board, why not simply do a full mortise to the end board and a full tennon on all the table planks? IMHO, you're going to need that full tenon to keep the boards from cupping.

Are you planning on joining the planks together or fit them loose? The table will be more stable if the planks are joined along their edges. I would recommend either an M&T joint here as well or use a spline between the planks. The spline will give the joint a lot more stability and keep them from cracking over time. If you have a plate joiner, that would work well too.
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Dwils204
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Re: Kitchen table design help.

Post by Dwils204 » Sat Mar 03, 2018 5:06 pm

The plan was to join the planks with just glue. The M&T would be going from the table to the end board. I had debated doing a tenon on each of the boards individually but I think I will wait until after I have joined the top and make it all one piece. My biggest concern is movement. I have seen a lot of horror stories of people who fastened the ends boards too snug and as soon as the wood moves the top is ruined. Never gave it any thought but I could M&T the planks together as well to increase stability. That would also solve the issue of not having a joiner. I was just going to square the edges on the table saw and run the boards through a planer to make them a little more uniform. Like I said the biggest concern though is do you think that a 4 inch tenon going into 9" of wood will support the end boards. Keep in mind that tenon will be only 2 inches shy of the entire width of the table. Also I apologize if I am not clear. This is all very new to me just want to make sure I get it right and learn ahead of time in stead of making 100 mistakes and having to redo the table.

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A. Spruce
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Re: Kitchen table design help.

Post by A. Spruce » Sat Mar 03, 2018 5:15 pm

You're still losing me on the 4" tenon. Is this the tongue length? Is it the tongue width you'll make on the end of each 9" wide board?
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Dwils204
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Re: Kitchen table design help.

Post by Dwils204 » Sat Mar 03, 2018 6:19 pm

Ill try to explain better. The table will be around 7 foot long and 4 foot wide made up of 2x10 boards joined together. Each 2x10 will be just over 6ft long with a 4" tongue on the end (the 4 ft wide ends of the table will be receiving an end board). I will mortise a 4 inch deep groove into the end boards and tap them on the ends for a more finished look. The joint I am worried about is that 4" tongue going into the 2x10 that will be 4 feet wide capping off the end of the table. So yes that tongue will be on the end of each 10 inch board.

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Shannon
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Re: Kitchen table design help.

Post by Shannon » Sat Mar 03, 2018 10:07 pm

I would suggest maybe using 2x6s or even 2x8s as the end pieces. So the main 2x10 planks would just need to be made a little longer to achieve the total length you want and the 4" length of the tenon will support the end boards much better then if they were 2x10s. I would also spline the length of the individual main planks to keep them from warping easier or separating as they dry out
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A. Spruce
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Re: Kitchen table design help.

Post by A. Spruce » Sun Mar 04, 2018 12:19 am

I agree, I would recommend using half the width of the planks or less for your end caps. With your planks at roughly 9", a 4"-ish end cap is going to show off the planks better and give a whole lot less leverage on the tenons.
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Dwils204
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Re: Kitchen table design help.

Post by Dwils204 » Sun Mar 04, 2018 9:19 am

Thanks guys! Starting the project today. Hope it goes well hahahahah

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A. Spruce
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Re: Kitchen table design help.

Post by A. Spruce » Sun Mar 04, 2018 9:39 am

Don't forget to share pics of your project. 8-)
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Dwils204
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Re: Kitchen table design help.

Post by Dwils204 » Wed Feb 20, 2019 12:23 pm

Well it still is not done unfortunately but there has been some progress. Here are a few pics. Had a lot of issues with the wood warping because we chose to go with construction lumber. It was a great idea for a test run but will need to be redone in the near future.
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A. Spruce
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Re: Kitchen table design help.

Post by A. Spruce » Wed Feb 20, 2019 2:53 pm

Using wet lumber, warpage and shrinkage are major problems. You'd have better luck with kiln dried construction lumber, but it's still going to under perform against cabinet grade lumber that has been specifically handled and dried for the purpose.
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Shannon
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Re: Kitchen table design help.

Post by Shannon » Wed Feb 20, 2019 4:06 pm

distress it and make it look old and no one will know the difference. It used to be everyone wanted new items now they want new items that look like they are 100 yrs old...go figure!
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Dwils204
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Re: Kitchen table design help.

Post by Dwils204 » Wed Feb 20, 2019 6:12 pm

That's the plan for now. Going to make chairs and a bench to match. It was a huge undertaking and we had no idea what we were getting into with it. The whole top is T&G there are no screws, the breadboards were mortise and tenon with dowels to prevent movement. The legs we used lags for stability but the top is held on by z clips that only screw to the top so it can expand and move without destroying itself. We bought a router table halfway through the process and did not realize how much easier that would have made it. We spent hours making jigs and clamping things just right to get the tongue and groove perfect on the boards. Its been pretty cold so when we get it done and painted/stained ill get more pictures up.

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