Deck Framing

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Neil007
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Deck Framing

Post by Neil007 » Sun Jul 08, 2018 10:27 pm

Hi all, Just watched the video on building a deck, and my queen and I are looking at redoing our deck, and by redoing, I mean she wants a brand new one LOL ( happy wife, happy life I guess ) I am just wondering if this is good or a little over kill
deck.jpg
deck.jpg (70.84 KiB) Viewed 195 times
There is an existing 4" slab under the deck now that it is anchored too, I am leaning towards using 6x6 posts ( previous owner used 4x4, 1 in each corner ) and adding 2 in the middle ( we want to make it 12x8 over the 10x8 it is right now. ) All the framing is 2x10 in the picture ( 2x6 are there now) and I plan on notching the 6x6 post to carried the weight. And add a ledger to secure it to the house seeing it almost 7 feet off the ground. ( right now its just a floating deck) Oh and my joists are 16" O.C. It may be hard to see in the pic, but my posts are 42" O.C. from the house, and 66" O.C. left to right. My wife says its overkill, but I don't think it is.


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Shannon
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Re: Deck Framing

Post by Shannon » Mon Jul 09, 2018 8:18 am

Ok so I have a couple of things to mention.
#1 Your wife is correct , the number of posts you have is over kill! LOL.
#2 Typically the joists would go the other direction but maybe you did it this way so you could use 8' long deck boards?

If this is the direction you want your joists (the way the picture is) then I have a couple of more suggestions.You need only 4 posts, one in each corner or with in 16" of the corners. Since you are using 6x6s you can notch the beams into the posts and through bolt the beams to the posts. You need joist hangers for sure as well. There is also no need for the double rim joist on the very outside edge (12' direction).
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Neil007
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Re: Deck Framing

Post by Neil007 » Mon Jul 16, 2018 10:21 pm

Quick question, are we allowed to post links in the forms ? I found my cities building codes for decks, but some of it I cant understand. I have a sketchup file of what I think would pass code aswell

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A. Spruce
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Re: Deck Framing

Post by A. Spruce » Mon Jul 16, 2018 10:27 pm

As long as the links pertains to the conversation, yes, you may post links.
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Neil007
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Re: Deck Framing

Post by Neil007 » Tue Jul 17, 2018 5:20 am

Ok thanks, I wasn't sure

https://www.cityofwoodstock.ca/en/resou ... clDWGS.pdf

And this is what I have so far
deck1.jpg
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The Framing is 2x8, 16" O.C. because if I read the building code correctly ( and thats a big if ) I am under the 11' 9" maximum span. 6x6 post because I will be over the threshold. they will be notched to carry the weight. 10" dia. piers 48" below grade, 6" above. I guess it page 3 that I am not wrapping my head around, its the 2 ply and 3 ply beam part.

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Shannon
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Re: Deck Framing

Post by Shannon » Tue Jul 17, 2018 10:19 am

Without any dimensions on your deck drawing i can't really say if you are correct for sure.
Basically as long as your beams do not span more then 9'-10" between your posts and your total joist span between beams is no more then 11'-9" you are fine with 2 ply 2x8s.Also for this posts against the house I would space them away from the house so you have room to work and so you do not hit the house footing or weeping tile. So I would cantilever the beams and have the posts around 24" from the house to centre of post. There is no spec on the city papers that I can see for the maximum beam Cantilever so check that with them.
You really do not need that centre post under the larger deck against the house either.
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A. Spruce
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Re: Deck Framing

Post by A. Spruce » Tue Jul 17, 2018 10:33 am

Personally, I'm not a fan of notching weather exposed members, all this does is introduce more surface area for moisture to collect, rot to set in, and more difficulty in repairing rot damage in a few years. I would place posts directly under beams and use a Simpson Strong-tie bracket to hold the two together.

I also agree with Shannon on spacing the posts out from the house, it will make your life much easier to do so.

If you are attaching a ledger to brick, don't, unless you know for certain that the brick is fully supported from behind and that you're able to get into framing or concrete within the wall.

Installing piers with posts on top, you will not have any torsional stability, you will need to add cross bracing or knee braces from the deck to the posts.
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Neil007
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Re: Deck Framing

Post by Neil007 » Tue Jul 17, 2018 11:30 am

Sorry I forgot to mention the dimensions, the top tier will be about 12x8 so the joist span will be roughly 11' 6", and the bottom tier will be about 12x10, so those joists will be roughly the same spam.

So with that being said, I am over the total length of the beam with 2x8, and if I am reading that chart correctly I will need to use 2x10 for the beams.

I won't be attaching a ledger to the brick, for the reason that was mentioned. I meant to show I would have the posts in saddle, drill the correct whole and bolt the 6x6 thought that, would that help with stability ?

So much to learn, I am glad this is our next year project lol, but the more I learn now, the easier it will be come time to build .

Thanks again

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A. Spruce
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Re: Deck Framing

Post by A. Spruce » Tue Jul 17, 2018 12:00 pm

Neil007 wrote:
Tue Jul 17, 2018 11:30 am
Sorry I forgot to mention the dimensions, the top tier will be about 12x8 so the joist span will be roughly 11' 6", and the bottom tier will be about 12x10, so those joists will be roughly the same spam.

So with that being said, I am over the total length of the beam with 2x8, and if I am reading that chart correctly I will need to use 2x10 for the beams.
There isn't much cost difference between a 2x8 and a 2x10, so you could either shorten your total deck size by a few inches to make the 2x8 work, or step up the the 2x10 and have more rigidity. You're right there on the cusp, so either way would suffice.
Neil007 wrote:
Tue Jul 17, 2018 11:30 am
I meant to show I would have the posts in saddle, drill the correct whole and bolt the 6x6 thought that, would that help with stability ?
Saddles and brackets make for stronger connections, but they don't really help much with torsional stability unless they are designed for that purpose. The generic brackets on the shelf are not, you would need to purchase a custom bracket or have one made, hence recommending knee bracing.

Bolting the beams to the side of the posts will help torsional stability some, but bolts do loosen over time, so this is not a something I would rely on. On the use of bolts, I highly recommend using actual hex bolts, not carriage bolts, this will allow you to come back and tighten everything periodically as the wood shrinks and things loosen up. Use large fender washers, or preferably railroad washers. Fender washers are large diameter to help keep the nut/bolt from sinking into the wood. Railroad washers are a much larger, cast iron washer that has a tear drop along side the bolt hole. That tear drop is a weep hole for water to have a way to get away from the bolt and keep the bolt from rusting. The weep hole points toward the ground.
Neil007 wrote:
Tue Jul 17, 2018 11:30 am
So much to learn, I am glad this is our next year project lol, but the more I learn now, the easier it will be come time to build .
Being well prepared always makes things go much more smoothly and easily. Use the time between now and then to perfect your design and create a comprehensive materials list. This will also allow you to budget for the build between now and then, if that is an issue.
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

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Shannon
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Re: Deck Framing

Post by Shannon » Wed Jul 18, 2018 7:32 am

Neil007 wrote:
Tue Jul 17, 2018 11:30 am
Sorry I forgot to mention the dimensions, the top tier will be about 12x8 so the joist span will be roughly 11' 6", and the bottom tier will be about 12x10, so those joists will be roughly the same spam.

So with that being said, I am over the total length of the beam with 2x8, and if I am reading that chart correctly I will need to use 2x10 for the beams.
You are fine according to what the city wants on your beams even with 2x8 as long as each post comes in away from the corner to at least 13" to center of post thus reducing the beam span between posts to 9'-10" maximum . As I mentioned before if they will allow you to go as far as 24" from edge of deck to centre of post , that is what I would do.
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